Traditional Parure Jewelry Set by Ekaterina Korzh is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2025 A' Design Award in Costume and Heritage Wear Design Competition Category.
IronCostume Design· 2025
Traditional Parure Jewelry Set
Client: Korzhstudio
A' Design Award Winner in Costume Design Category
Verified Award Winner
Verify Award Status for #168677The Design
About Traditional Parure Jewelry Set
This project revises a traditional Russian jewelry set by combining sustainable technologies with traditional craft techniques. The Russian Traditional Parure features three key elements: a Celebration Tiara, a faux amber neckpiece, and an Ojerelok neckpiece. Ekaterina researched jewelry from the Russian North to revive its crafts and history, incorporating new sustainable methods like creating faux amber from recycled glass. Additionally, she expanded design possibilities and developed a unique method for applying the cloisonne goldsmithing technique directly onto recycled glass.
The Recognition
About the A' Design Award
Traditional Parure Jewelry Set is an Iron A' Design Award winner, a prestigious recognition granted to good designs that meet the professional and industrial requirements expected from well-designed creations. Iron winners demonstrate great skill, high specialization, expert understanding, and creative capacity of their creators. Traditional Parure Jewelry Set is expected to be a highly regarded, admired, and cherished creation that is practical and innovative. This Iron A' Design Award-winning design integrates industry best practices and has competent technical characteristics linked with know-how and talent. Traditional Parure Jewelry Set is respected for its thoroughness and is designed to provide quality of life improvements that help make the world a better place.
Where to Get It
Bespoke Jewelry Design and Creation
We create distinctive jewelry pieces that blend traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design. Our work combines metalwork, hand embroidery, and sustainable materials to craft unique pieces for private collections. Each design tells a story through carefully selected materials and artistic techniques.
Discuss Your ProjectInterviews
Design Interview
What is the main principle, idea and inspiration behind your design?
My design is rooted in sustainability, storytelling, and identity. I often use recycled materials—such as reclaimed jewelry components or plastic bags—to give discarded items a new life. Much of my work draws on Slavic folk traditions, mythology, and personal memory to create wearable pieces that hold both narrative and ecological significance.
What has been your main focus in designing this work? Especially what did you want to achieve?
I focused on creating a dialogue between the past and present, merging traditional craft with contemporary concerns like environmental sustainability. I wanted the work to feel both personal and universal, inviting the wearer to reflect on cultural roots, transformation, and impermanence.
What are your future plans for this award winning design?
I plan to expand it into a larger collection that further explores modularity and material reuse. I’m also interested in exhibiting it in both art jewelry galleries and design contexts to bridge the gap between art and wearable design.
Grand Interview
Your innovative approach to reviving Russian jewelry traditions through the Traditional Parure Jewelry Set beautifully combines sustainable practices with historical craftsmanship - could you elaborate on how you developed your unique method of applying cloisonne goldsmithing directly onto recycled glass?
This technique emerged from a desire to merge two seemingly opposing forces—fragility and resilience—within a material and symbolic framework. Cloisonné, a meticulous enameling technique traditionally used on metal, represents the refinement and opulence of imperial Russian craftsmanship. Recycled glass, on the other hand, is a discarded material with no inherent value in traditional goldsmithing. The act of applying cloisonné directly onto reclaimed glass was a deliberate gesture of rebellion against conventional hierarchies of material value. Technically, it required months of trial and error to control enamel flow on uneven surfaces and to prevent thermal shock. I saw this process as a metaphor for cultural reparation: reassembling fragmented histories using overlooked or damaged elements. The result is a new visual and material language—one that honors historical craft while challenging its exclusivity and permanence.
The Traditional Parure Jewelry Set makes a powerful statement about state propaganda through authentic craft practices - how does each element of this three-piece collection communicate your artistic protest while honoring genuine Russian cultural heritage?
Each piece in the parure functions as a wearable relic, evoking both reverence and resistance. In Russia, craft traditions were historically entangled with state narratives—used to project ideals of power, unity, and cultural supremacy. My reinterpretation seeks to peel back those layers. For instance, the Celebration Tiara adopts the formal geometry of Soviet festive regalia but subverts its meaning through the use of fragile materials and hand-finished imperfections. It critiques the spectacle of authoritarian aesthetics. The Ojerelok neckpiece, with its raw linen canvas and exposed stitching, references the everyday labor of peasant women, elevating their silent histories over state-manufactured icons. The faux amber piece plays with nostalgia—mimicking the prized material of Soviet elite jewelry—but made from recycled waste. These subtle disruptions embedded within traditional formats question the authenticity of national myths while reclaiming the value of vernacular, feminine, and eco-conscious voices within Russian culture.
In creating the Traditional Parure Jewelry Set's Celebration Tiara, you incorporated an impressive array of materials from cotton cord to fine silver - what guided your material selection process and how does each component contribute to both the aesthetic and narrative aspects of the piece?
The material choices were driven by symbolic resonance and narrative layering. Fine silver represents ceremonial formality and carries the weight of tradition—it’s the surface on which authority has often been etched. But I balanced this with modest and tactile materials like cotton cord and glass to insert a counter-narrative. Cotton cord, often used in domestic crafts, reflects labor traditionally excluded from "high" art. The contrast of softness and preciousness allowed me to question whose hands are remembered in history. Additionally, the use of paper elements, stitched textiles, and scorched or aged finishes evokes the ephemerality of memory, particularly cultural memory that has been manipulated or erased. This hybrid materiality forces a reevaluation of what we consider "valuable," both in terms of materials and narratives. The tiara becomes a microcosm of a nation in tension—ornate yet frayed, unified yet splintered.
Behind the Design
Press Kit
Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.
- Unique Properties
- The project is devoted to the recreation of conventional jewelry sets with the use of contemporary sustainable technologies and traditional craft-based techniques.
The Russian Traditional Parure consists of three major decorative elements: a Celebration Tiara, a faux amber neckpiece, and an Ojerelok neckpiece. - Dimensions & Packaging
- Celebration Tiara
Dimensions: 35 cm x 35 cm x 12 cm
Traditional Amber neckpiece
Length: 50 cm
Weight: 250 g
Ojerelok Neckpiece
Length: 150 cm - Tags
- Russian, tiaras, gold, pearl, jewelry, jewellery, historical, craft, traditional
- Production Technology
- Celebration Tiara
Medium: Cotton cord, cotton canvas, mother of pearl, silk velvet, silk canvas, vintage glass and gemstone beads, flour adhesive, vitreous enamel, freshwater pearls, goldwork wire, wool thread, brass, and fine silver.
Traditional Amber neckpiece
Medium: Recycled glass, copper, enamel inlay, and rough wool thread.
Ojerelok Neckpiece
Medium: Cotton cord, linen canvas, mother of pearl, silk velvet, silk canvas, glass, and gemstone beads. - Design Challenge
- In the project, I studied jewelry from the traditional costumes of the Russian North to address this parure with historical accuracy while applying a new contemporary approach. These techniques are time-consuming and technically challenging. Additionally, I developed a unique method for applying the cloisonne goldsmithing technique directly onto recycled glass that required me to do profound research on glass qualities and closonne techniques.
- Research
- This project revises a traditional Russian jewelry set using modern sustainable techniques and traditional crafting methods. The Russian Traditional Parure includes three main pieces: a Celebration Tiara, a faux amber neckpiece, and an Ojerelok neckpiece. I studied jewelry from the traditional costumes of the Russian North to preserve these crafts. This project combines modern sustainable practices with traditional craft techniques.
- Inspiration
- I blend traditional hand embroidery techniques with metalwork in ornamental jewelry to illustrate my protest of the current Russian state propaganda based on fake national ideals. I do it by recalling original historical Russian craft practices and the conventional crafts I discovered through my profound research of traditional costumes and the garment history of Russia.
- Project Duration
- The Russian Parure took me approximately 400 hours for the development of design, embroidery work, metal work, etc. The project started in Lawrence, KS, in October of 2023 and finished in April of 2024
- Operation Flow
- This jewelry set comprises three elements: a tiara, a faux amber necklace, and a beaded neckpiece. Traditionally, it was worn by peasants in Northern Russia until the early 20th century. The set was worn by young women on their ceremony passing into the adulthood that was happening prior their wedding day.
- Team Members
- Ekaterina Korzh
- Image Credits
- Ekaterina Korzh
Aaron Paden
Anastassia Rodionova
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