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Random Puff A Th’ Ann An Aodach Grèise 4D by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff A Th’ Ann An Aodach Grèise 4D by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 Duais Iarainn A' Design Award in Dealbhadh Teacsail, Aodaich, Binneis, Pàtranan agus Clò Competition Category.


IarannTeacsail· 2023

Random Puff A Th’ Ann An Aodach Grèise 4D

by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Client: MIT Media Lab

Duais Iarainn A' Design Award Winner in Teacsail Category

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Verified Award Winner

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The Design

About Random Puff A Th’ Ann An Aodach Grèise 4D

Is e pufair ùr a th’ ann an RandomPuff a bhios a’ cleachdadh puffs grèise 4D airson insulation aodaich. Bidh puffs air an dèanamh rèidh an toiseach agus thig iad a-steach do chuachagan nuair a bhios iad fosgailte don teas. Bidh na puffs gnìomhaichte a’ glacadh èadhar eadar an àrainneachd a-muigh agus an neach-caitheamh gus am bodhaig a chumail blàth. Tha an leasachadh a’ toirt a-steach cruthachadh leabharlann de stuth-ghrèis 4D eadar-obrachadh eadar ‘snàithleach gnìomhach’ agus ‘aodach statach’. Faodaidh dealbhadairean agus luchd-leasachaidh innealan dealbhaidh coimpiutaireachd a chleachdadh gus obrachadh còmhla ri luchd-cleachdaidh deireannach, a’ cruthachadh aodach ùr-nodha agus dealbhadh bog math a tha fasanta àrd-theicnigeach, pearsanaichte agus seasmhach.

The Recognition

About the Duais Iarainn A' Design Award

Tha Random Puff A Th’ Ann An Aodach Grèise 4D air Duais Iarainn A' Design Award a bhuannachadh, aithneachadh urramach a bheirear do dhealbhaidhean math a choinnicheas ris na riatanasan proifeiseanta is gnìomhachais a thathar a' sùileachadh bho chruthachaidhean a chaidh an dealbhadh gu math. Tha buannaichean Iarainn a' nochdadh sgil mhòr, speisealachadh àrd, tuigse eòlaiche agus comas cruthachail an luchd-cruthachaidh. Thathar an dùil gum bi Random Puff A Th’ Ann An Aodach Grèise 4D na chruthachadh air a bheil mòran meas, ion-mholta agus gràdhach a tha practaigeach agus ùr-ghnàthach. Tha an dealbhadh seo a bhuannaich Duais Iarainn A' Design Award a' cur nan cleachdaidhean as fheàrr sa ghnìomhachas còmhla agus tha feartan teignigeach comasach aige ceangailte ri eòlas-dèanamh agus tàlant. Tha meas air Random Puff A Th’ Ann An Aodach Grèise 4D airson a dhùrachd agus chaidh a dhealbhadh gus leasachaidhean càileachd beatha a thoirt seachad a chuidicheas le bhith a' dèanamh an t-saoghail na àite nas fheàrr.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensions & Packaging
500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Tags
4D embroidery
Production Technology
Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Design Challenge
First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Research
Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiration
Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Project Duration
The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Operation Flow
First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Team Members
Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Image Credits
All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.

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