Reinterpretation Of Changshan Lole na Tong Tong

ʻO Reinterpretation Of Changshan Lole na Tong Tong he mea lanakila hanohano loa o ka 2024 A' Design Award Keleawe ma ka Māhele Hoʻokūkū Hoʻolālā Lole, ʻAʻahu a me Kāpili.

KeleaweLole· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Lole

na Tong Tong

Mea Lanakila A' Design Award Keleawe ma ka Māhele Lole

93,463

Mea Lanakila i Hōʻoia ʻIa

Hōʻoia i ke Kūlana Makana no #159036

Nānā ma A' Design Award Hoʻolaha Nūhou Hōʻailona Makana

Nā Waihoʻoluʻu

Ka Hoʻolālā

E Pili Ana iā Reinterpretation Of Changshan Lole

Hoʻohanohano ka hoʻolālā i ka nani mau loa o ka Changshan, he lole kāne kuʻuna Pākē i mahalo nui ʻia. Ma ka hoʻāla ʻana i kona hiʻohiʻona maʻemaʻe, hui pū maʻalahi kēia hoʻolālā hou i ka moʻomeheu me ka hoʻonui hou. Hoʻonui nā kumuhana kū pololei a me nā ʻeke i hoʻohui malu ʻia i ka hana pono me ka mālama ʻana i ka haʻahaʻa. Hana ʻia mai ka hulu hipa wili kiʻekiʻe twill, hāʻawi ia i ke kākoʻo paʻa a me ka nānā maʻemaʻe. Ma o nā hana kaila ʻākahele, ua lanakila ʻia ka pilikia o ka hoʻolālā hou ʻana i ka ʻāʻī me ka hōʻoia ʻana i nā piʻo mālie a me ka paʻa o ka hoʻokumu.

Ka Hoʻomaikai

E Pili Ana i ka A' Design Award Keleawe

Ua lanakila ka hoʻolālā Reinterpretation Of Changshan Lole i ka A' Design Award Keleawe, he ʻike hoʻohanohano nui loa i hāʻawi ʻia i nā hoʻolālā kūʻokoʻa i ʻike ʻia ma o ka hana noʻeau, ka akamai a me ka makakoho. He mau hana mākaukau a hana noʻeau kupaianaha nā lanakila Keleawe e hōʻoia ana i ka ʻike nui, ka noʻonoʻo a me ka maʻalea o kā lākou poʻe hoʻolālā. Manaʻo ʻia ʻo ka hoʻolālā Reinterpretation Of Changshan Lole he mea i mahalo nui ʻia, hoʻohiwahiwa ʻia a aloha ʻia, he ʻoihana a hou loa. ʻO kēia hoʻolālā i lanakila i ka A' Design Award Keleawe e hoʻohui ana i nā hana maikaʻi loa o ka hana noʻeau, ka ʻepekema, ka hoʻolālā a me ka ʻenehana, a maikaʻi no kona nānā ʻana i nā kikoʻī. Hoʻokō maikaʻi ka hoʻolālā Reinterpretation Of Changshan Lole i nā pono, hoʻopā i ka makemake, hoʻohiwahiwa i nā manaʻo a huki i ka makemake e ʻike.

Ma Hope o ka Hoʻolālā

ʻEke Nūhou

Nā hōʻoia, nā lālā hui a me nā kikoʻī ʻenehana i hāʻawi ʻia e ka mea hoʻolālā.

Nā ʻAno Kūʻokoʻa: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Nā Ana a me ka Hoʻopili: Full-body Length
Nā Lepili: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
ʻEnehana Hana: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Pilikia Hoʻolālā: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Noiʻi: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Hoʻoulu Manaʻo: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Ka Lōʻihi o ka Papahana: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Kaʻina Hana: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Nā Lālā Hui: Tong Tong
Nā Kuleana Kiʻi: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023