Random Puff 4D 刺繍衣服は by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Random Puff 4D 刺繍衣服は by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2023 A' Design Award 鉄賞 in テキスタイル・布地・テクスチャー・パターン・布デザイン Competition Category.

鉄テキスタイル· 2023

Random Puff 4D 刺繍衣服は

by Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

Client: MIT Media Lab

A' Design Award 鉄賞 Winner in テキスタイル Category

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Colors

The Design

About Random Puff 4D 刺繍衣服は

RandomPuff は、衣服の断熱に 4D 刺繍パフを使用した新しいパフです。パフは最初は平らに作られており、熱にさらされるとドーム状に膨らみます。活性化されたパフは外部環境と着用者の間に空気を閉じ込め、体を暖かく保ちます。開発には、「アクティブな繊維」と「静的な生地」の間の 4D 刺繍素材の相互作用のライブラリの作成が含まれます。デザイナーと開発者は、コンピューテーショナルデザインツールを使用してエンドユーザーと協力し、ハイテクファッションでパーソナライズされた持続可能な斬新なテキスタイルやソフトグッドデザインを作成できます。

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 鉄賞

Random Puff 4D 刺繍衣服はは、よく設計された創造物に期待される専門的・産業的要件を満たす優れたデザインに授与される、権威ある評価である A' Design Award 鉄賞の受賞作品です。鉄賞の受賞作品は、制作者の高い技量、高度な専門性、専門家としての理解、創造的な能力を示しています。Random Puff 4D 刺繍衣服はは、高く評価され、称賛され、愛される、実用的で革新的な創造物であることが期待されます。この A' Design Award 鉄賞を受賞したデザインは、業界のベストプラクティスを統合し、ノウハウと才能に結びついた有能な技術的特性を備えています。Random Puff 4D 刺繍衣服はは、その徹底ぶりで尊敬され、世界をより良い場所にするための生活の質の向上をもたらすよう設計されています。

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
Dimensions & Packaging: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
Tags: 4D embroidery
Production Technology: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
Design Challenge: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
Research: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
Inspiration: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
Project Duration: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
Operation Flow: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
Team Members: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
Image Credits: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.