동 패션 · 2024
Reinterpretation Of Changshan 의복
by Tong Tong
- A' Design Award 동상 2024 in 패션
- Estimated Number of Design Views: 92,381
- Verification code D1C9C470D8 · Verify this award
Colors
About Reinterpretation Of Changshan 의복
이 디자인은 중국 전통 남성복인 창산(長衫)의 시대를 초월한 우아함에 경의를 표한다. 창산 특유의 정제된 실루엣을 떠올리게 하는 이 재해석은 전통과 혁신을 자연스럽게 융합한다. 수직 봉제선과 눈에 띄지 않게 통합된 주머니는 단정함을 유지하면서도 기능성을 높인다. 고연사 울 트윌 소재로 제작되어 구조적 지지력과 구김 없는 외관을 제공한다. 정교한 테일러링 기법을 통해 네크라인을 새롭게 구현하는 과제를 해결하였으며, 부드러운 곡선과 구조적 완결성을 동시에 확보하였다.
About the A' Design Award 동상
Reinterpretation Of Changshan 의복, 이 작품은 A' Design Award 동상 수상작으로, 창의성, 독창성, 영민함으로 돋보이는 뛰어난 디자인에 수여되는 높은 권위의 인정입니다. 동상 수상작은 충분히 숙련되고 인상적으로 창의적인 작품으로, 디자이너의 폭넓은 경험, 상상력, 기지를 입증합니다. Reinterpretation Of Changshan 의복, 이 작품은 높이 평가받고 감탄과 사랑을 받는 사물로서 두드러지게 전문적이고 혁신적일 것으로 기대됩니다. 이 동상 수상 디자인은 예술, 과학, 디자인, 기술의 모범 사례를 담고 있으며 세부에 대한 주의로 훌륭합니다. Reinterpretation Of Changshan 의복, 이 작품은 필요를 훌륭하게 충족하고 욕망에 닿으며 감정을 매료하고 호기심을 불러일으킵니다.
Press Kit
- Unique Properties
- While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
- Dimensions & Packaging
- Full-body Length
- Tags
- Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
- Production Technology
- A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
- Design Challenge
- The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
- Research
- Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
- Inspiration
- This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
- Project Duration
- This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
- Operation Flow
- The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
- Image Credits
- Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023
