Reinterpretation Of Changshan ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມ by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມ by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award ລະດັບທອງສຳລິດ in ການອອກແບບແຟຊັ່ນ, ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງ ແລະ ເສື້ອຜ້າ Competition Category.

ທອງສຳລິດແຟຊັ່ນ· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມ

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award ລະດັບທອງສຳລິດ Winner in ແຟຊັ່ນ Category

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Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມ

ການອອກແບບນີ້ໃຫ້ກຽດແກ່ຄວາມສະຫງ່າງາມທີ່ບໍ່ມີວັນລ້າສະໄໝຂອງ Changshan ເຊິ່ງເປັນເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມແບບດັ້ງເດີມທີ່ມີຊື່ສຽງຂອງຜູ້ຊາຍຈີນ. ດ້ວຍການສະແດງຮູບທຮງທີ່ລະອຽດອ່ອນ, ການຕີຄວາມໃໝ່ນີ້ໄດ້ຜະສົມຜະສານມໍລະດົກກັບນະວັດຕະກຳຢ່າງກົມກຽວ. ຮອຍຕະເຫຼັບແນວຕັ້ງແລະກະເປົາທີ່ປະສົມປະສານຢ່າງລະມັດລະວັງຊ່ວຍເພີ່ມການໃຊ້ງານພ້ອມທັງຮັກສາຄວາມສຸພາບງາມ. ຖືກຜະລິດຈາກຜ້າຂົນສັດທວິວທີ່ມີການບິດສູງ, ມັນໃຫ້ການຮອງຮັບໂຄງສ້າງແລະຮູບລັກສະນະທີ່ບໍ່ເປັນຮອຍຍັ້ນ. ຜ່ານວິທີການຕັດຫຍິບທີ່ພິຖີພິຖັນ, ຄວາມທ້າທາຍໃນການປັບປຸງຄໍເສື້ອໃໝ່ໄດ້ຮັບການແກ້ໄຂພ້ອມທັງຮັບປະກັນທັງເສັ້ນໂຄ້ງທີ່ລຽບງ່າຍແລະຄວາມແຂງແຮງຂອງໂຄງສ້າງ.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award ລະດັບທອງສຳລິດ

Reinterpretation Of Changshan ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມ ແມ່ນຜູ້ຊະນະ A' Design Award ລະດັບທອງສຳລິດ ເຊິ່ງເປັນການຍອມຮັບທີ່ມີກຽດສູງສຳລັບການອອກແບບທີ່ໂດດເດັ່ນ ເຊິ່ງມີລັກສະນະເດັ່ນດ້ວຍຄວາມຄິດສ້າງສັນ ຄວາມຫຼັກແຫຼມ ແລະ ຄວາມຄົມຄາຍ. ຜູ້ຊະນະລະດັບທອງສຳລິດແມ່ນຜົນງານທີ່ມີທັກສະພຽງພໍ ແລະ ສ້າງສັນຢ່າງໂດດເດັ່ນ ທີ່ຢືນຢັນປະສົບການອັນກວ້າງຂວາງ ຈິນຕະນາການ ແລະ ຄວາມສາມາດຂອງຜູ້ອອກແບບ. Reinterpretation Of Changshan ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມ ຖືກຄາດວ່າຈະເປັນສິ່ງຂອງທີ່ໄດ້ຮັບການຍົກຍ້ອງສູງ ໜ້າຊົມເຊີຍ ແລະ ເປັນທີ່ຮັກແພງ ທີ່ເປັນມືອາຊີບ ແລະ ມີນະວັດຕະກຳຢ່າງໂດດເດັ່ນ. ການອອກແບບທີ່ຊະນະລະດັບທອງສຳລິດນີ້ນຳໃຊ້ວິທີປະຕິບັດທີ່ດີທີ່ສຸດໃນດ້ານສິລະປະ ວິທະຍາສາດ ການອອກແບບ ແລະ ເຕັກໂນໂລຊີ ແລະ ດີເລີດໃນການເອົາໃຈໃສ່ລາຍລະອຽດ. Reinterpretation Of Changshan ເຄື່ອງນຸ່ງຫົ່ມ ຕອບສະໜອງຄວາມຕ້ອງການຢ່າງດີເລີດ ສຳຜັດຄວາມປາດຖະໜາ ດຶງດູດຄວາມຮູ້ສຶກ ແລະ ກະຕຸ້ນຄວາມຢາກຮູ້ຢາກເຫັນ.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023