Peke ki te ihirangi
Turquerie Kohinga Kākahu Wāhine nā Catalina Paladi

Ko te hoahoa Turquerie Kohinga Kākahu Wāhine nā Catalina Paladi he kaitoa whakahirahira o te 2021 A' Design Award Hiriwa i te Wāhanga Whakataetae Hoahoa Kākahu, Āhua me te Kākahu.


HiriwaKākahu· 2021

Turquerie Kohinga Kākahu Wāhine

nā Catalina Paladi

Kiritaki: Catalina Paladi

Kaitoa o te A' Design Award Hiriwa i te Wāhanga Kākahu

61,276

Ngā Tae

Te Hoahoa

Mō Turquerie Kohinga Kākahu Wāhine

Ko Turquerie he kohinga kākahu wāhine i whakaawehia e te ahurea ataata o te Emepaea o Ottoman. E ono ngā āhua me te tekau ngā wāhanga i mahia ā-ringa, mai i te tino iti ki te waenga te rahi. Ko ngā rawa hiranga pēnei i te jacquard, te weruweru huruhuru, me te chiffon e hanga ana i te rerekētanga o te tae me te rerenga wai, e whakarangatira ana i ngā āhua māmā me ngā raina hou mā. Ko ngā papanga kākahu paparua o te matotoru me te kīwaha rerekē, tahi ake me ngā ringa whakapaipai me ngā mimiro, ka homai he tairongo nekeneke ki ngā kākahu. He maha ngā tuinga i tuia ā-ringa, nā te mea he ngāwari ngā papanga.

Te Whakamihi

Mō te A' Design Award Hiriwa

Ko Turquerie Kohinga Kākahu Wāhine te toa o te A' Design Award Hiriwa, he whakaaetanga tino whai mana e hoatu ana ki ngā hoahoa taumata teitei rawa, ātaahua me te whakamīharo. Ko ngā toa Hiriwa he mahi tino kanapa, tino auaha e whakaatu ana i te mātanga, te pūmanawa me te mōhio hōhonu o ā rātou kaihoahoa. E tūmanakohia ana ko Turquerie Kohinga Kākahu Wāhine he mahi whakamīharo, he tauira, he tino ngaio, he auaha hōhonu. Ko tēnei hoahoa i toa i te Hiriwa he hanganga rongonui, whakamīharotia e whai wāhi ana ki te whakawhānui i ngā rohe o te toi, te pūtaiao, te hoahoa me te hangarau. Ko Turquerie Kohinga Kākahu Wāhine he mahi e hae ana te tini, e whakaara ana i ngā hiahia, e kawe mai ana i ngā kare-ā-roto pai, ā, e whakaoho ana i te mīharo.

I Muri i te Hoahoa

Kete Pāpāho

Ngā whakamihi, ngā mema o te rōpū me ngā taipitopito hangarau i whakaratohia e te kaihoahoa.

Āhuatanga Motuhake
Turquerie is a maximalist collection, dynamic, full of textile ornaments, colours, embellishments, accessories, jewelleries and other decorations, all intended to eloquently reflect the Ottoman influence sheltering a modern allure. Luxury materials such as jacquards, velvet, chiffon create both chromatic contrast and fluidity, furthermore enriching the simple shapes and the clean modern lines. Made of six silhouettes, it gives a wide range of outfits to choose from, for every occasion.
Inenga & Pēketanga
The entire collection consists of 6 looks, 10 custom made pieces. Size XS to M.
Tūtohu
Turquerie, velvet, jacquard, chiffon, modern, classic, couture.
Hangarau Whakanao
Due to the delicate nature of the fabrics, the collection has a lot of hand sewn stitches, approaching the old school techniques. It is composed of six silhouettes: 1. A modern velvet jumpsuit, 2. A classic velvet suit with jacquard vest with a mosque like ornament, 3. a jaquard tunic with chiffon layered sleeves, 4. a jaquard ornamented dress with a chiffon kaftan with ruffled sleeves, 5. A chiffon dress with a striped golden jacquard overcoat. 6. A chiffon maxi dress, with a long velvet vest.
Wero Hoahoa
Some of the challenges that arose during the process were: 1) the volume of labour was daunting for one person (CAD pattern making, cutting and sewing the cotton mock-ups, cutting and sewing the final pieces, multiple fittings and alterations); 2) the gentle and delicate fabrics needed special care (plenty of stitches had been hand sewn: velvet ). 3)the project involved an extensive research part as well, since it served as final course work for the author's Textile Engineering Degree.
Rangahau
The research focuses on the Ottoman Empire: the tolerance they displayed towards vasal nations, the social role they attributed to women, the majesty of their culture and their ability to embrace foreign influences in order to enrich their own culture. This inspired the author to find balance between her Moldovan roots and her addictive love towards other cultures. Still, it was a risky yet good decision to pin the Ottoman inspiration against a Moldovan ethnic background for the campaign shooting.
Whakaaweawe
The majestic Ottoman Empire served as inspiration for this collection. Tolerant ottoman politics implemented towards conquered territories resulted in a rich, colourful cultural life which upheld a harmonious interaction between the arts. Thus, a mix of byzantine, european and persan influences flourished in the turkish culture. The collection and its campaign illustrates both the refined esthetics of the Ottoman Empire and their open-minded approach to foreign cultures. Being shot in a folkloric Moldovan background, it emphasizes the importance of interaction between nations and encourages the viewer to open his heart to the multitude of the different cultures, since every person is a sum of the many peoples and nations that his ancestors had crossed. Evreyone has in his cells a richness of colour, energy and temper of so many unknown to him individuals who fill his genealogy up, people who had their joy and happiness, sufferings and burdens, but nevertheless, they had gifted the modern man a part of themselves.
Roanga o te Kaupapa
The project had begun in September 2016 and was completed in June 2017. It served as the final project for the Textile Engineering degree, part of the University graduation. The idea of placing the collection in the Moldovan rustic background for the campaign came in early 2020, whilst the shooting took place in September 2020.
Rerenga Mahi
The collection dynamics are conveyed by the layering of fabrics which differ in density, opacity and colour. The dynamics are obtained by the stylization of the sleeves, which creates a rhythmic movement of flounces; different velvet textures; expressive jacquards and a playful dance of transparencies.
Whakamana Whakaahua
Image #1, #2, #3, #4, #5
Photographer: Sergiu Rotaru, 2020
Styling: Corina Croitor
Model: Sabrina Danilova
Model: Valeria Untu
Model: Maria-Magdalena Cucu
Video credits: Corina Croitor
Video Montage: Selina Paladi

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