Ontwerper van de Dag Interview
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I am a costume designer and visual artist currently pursuing an MFA in Costume Design at California Institute of the Arts (CalArts) in Los Angeles.
Could you please tell us about your experience as a designer, artist, architect or creator?
I am a costume designer and visual artist currently pursuing an MFA in Costume Design at California Institute of the Arts (CalArts) in Los Angeles. Before that, I completed my BA in Costume Design for Theatre and Screen at Wimbledon College of Arts, University of the Arts London.
I have been working in costume design for several years through theater productions, film projects, exhibitions, and interdisciplinary collaborations. My practice combines historical research, visual storytelling, and material experimentation, with a particular interest in the relationship between costume, identity, and the body.
Throughout my education and professional experience, I have worked on a wide range of projects, including stage productions, independent films, performance works, and art exhibitions. I have collaborated with directors, producers, artists, and creative teams in the United Kingdom and the United States, developing costumes for both narrative and experimental projects.
In addition to production work, my designs have been presented through exhibitions and publications, including the Fashion Art Exhibition held alongside the publication of The Art of Kaiqi Zhang. I am especially interested in projects that bridge costume design, contemporary art, and performance, allowing costume to function not only as part of a production but also as an independent artistic medium.
My work is shaped by experiences across China, the United Kingdom, Europe, and the United States, and I continue to explore how historical references, cultural narratives, and innovative materials can be combined through design.
How did you become a designer?
I did not become interested in design through fashion trends or commercial brands. What first attracted me was storytelling and the way visual elements can shape how people understand a character, a culture, or an entire world.
As I grew older, I became increasingly interested in history, travel, museums, and different cultures. I enjoyed studying how clothing reflected social values, identity, and human behavior across different periods. Costume design felt like a natural way to combine all of these interests.
My journey as a designer developed through a variety of experiences rather than a single moment. I studied and worked in China, the United Kingdom, Europe, and the United States, and each place influenced how I think about design. Experiences ranging from theater productions and film projects to fashion events and even wildlife research exposed me to different ways of observing people and the world around me.
What continues to drive me today is curiosity. I am fascinated by the relationship between history and contemporary culture, between the human body and the clothing that surrounds it. Design allows me to transform research, observation, and imagination into something tangible that can communicate ideas and emotions.
For me, becoming a designer was not simply choosing a profession. It was finding a way to connect my interests in history, culture, storytelling, travel, and visual expression through a single creative practice.
What are your priorities, technique and style when designing?
Three aspects are particularly important in my design process: research, storytelling, and material exploration.
Research is always my starting point. Whether I am designing for theater, film, or an exhibition, I spend a significant amount of time studying historical references, cultural context, visual sources, and the project's narrative. I believe strong design is built on understanding rather than decoration.
The second priority is storytelling. As a costume designer, I am interested in how design can communicate identity, emotion, and character. I want every visual decision to contribute to a larger narrative rather than exist purely for aesthetic purposes.
The third aspect is material exploration. I enjoy experimenting with fabrics, structure, texture, and construction techniques. Many of my projects involve transforming traditional forms through unusual materials or sculptural approaches. Material testing is often where unexpected ideas emerge.
In terms of technique, I rely heavily on both research and hands-on making. While I use digital tools such as Photoshop and Illustrator for presentations and visual development, I prefer to explore ideas physically through hand-made collages, draping, mock-ups, and material experiments. I often discover more by working directly with materials than by working exclusively on a computer.
My design style is influenced by historical references, contemporary visual culture, and sculptural forms. I am particularly interested in the relationship between the body, clothing, and identity. Many of my projects combine historical silhouettes with contemporary materials, creating work that exists somewhere between costume, fashion, and sculpture.
When starting a new project, I usually begin with research and image collection, followed by hand-made collages, sketches, and material testing. From there, I develop prototypes and continue refining the design through experimentation. I see design as an evolving process rather than a fixed plan, and I remain open to discoveries throughout the making stage.
Which emotions do you feel when designing?
For me, designing begins with curiosity. At the start of a project, I become excited by the process of research and discovery. I enjoy exploring historical references, literature, visual culture, and materials, looking for unexpected connections that can lead to new ideas.
The most exciting stage is usually the moment when an abstract concept starts becoming something tangible. This often happens during experimentation, when materials, sketches, and ideas begin to come together in a way that I did not fully anticipate. I enjoy that sense of exploration because it feels like a conversation between the concept and the making process.
I also find great satisfaction in solving creative problems. Every project presents different challenges, whether they involve storytelling, construction, materials, or collaboration. Finding a solution that is both practical and visually meaningful is one of the most rewarding aspects of design.
Of course, seeing the finished work is exciting as well, especially when it is finally worn by a performer or presented to an audience. However, I think I enjoy the journey more than the final result. The research, experimentation, and gradual development of an idea are the parts of the process that bring me the most happiness.
Ultimately, designing fulfills my curiosity about people, history, and culture. It allows me to transform research and imagination into something physical, and that process of discovery is what keeps me passionate about design.
What particular aspects of your background shaped you as a designer?
Several aspects of my background have shaped me as a designer, but interestingly, many of them are not directly related to design itself.
One important influence is my interest in history. I spend a great deal of time studying historical clothing, cultural traditions, and the social contexts behind them. This has taught me to look beyond appearances and understand how objects reflect human behavior, values, and identity. Historical research continues to be a foundation of my creative process.
Travel has also played a significant role in my development. Living and studying in different countries exposed me to diverse cultures, artistic traditions, and ways of thinking. These experiences encouraged me to approach design with curiosity and an open mind rather than relying on a single perspective.
Another important influence comes from my interest in wildlife and the natural world. Observing animals, landscapes, and natural structures has taught me to pay attention to form, texture, adaptation, and transformation. Nature often inspires the way I think about silhouette, material, and movement.
In terms of non-design skills, I believe research, observation, and communication have been just as important as drawing or construction techniques. Research helps me build meaningful concepts, observation helps me understand people and the world around me, and communication allows me to collaborate effectively with directors, performers, and creative teams.
Looking back, my design journey has been shaped by curiosity more than anything else. Whether studying history, traveling, visiting museums, reading literature, or observing nature, I have always been interested in understanding how people express themselves and interact with the world. Design became the medium through which I could transform those interests into visual and physical experiences.
What is your growth path? What are your future plans? What is your dream design project?
My growth path has been shaped by a gradual expansion of scale, perspective, and ambition. I began by focusing on costume design as a way to support storytelling, but over time my interests expanded into exhibitions, material experimentation, visual art, and interdisciplinary projects. Each project has encouraged me to think beyond clothing itself and consider how costume can communicate ideas about history, identity, culture, and the human body.
Looking ahead, I hope to continue working across theater, film, exhibitions, and contemporary art. I am interested in developing projects that blur the boundaries between costume, sculpture, installation, and performance. Rather than working within a single discipline, I would like to continue exploring how different creative fields can inform one another.
One of my long-term goals is to create large-scale immersive projects where costume becomes part of an entire visual environment. I am fascinated by historical narratives, mythology, and cultural memory, and I would love to develop a project that combines costume design, spatial design, performance, and audience interaction.
In the future, I hope to be remembered as a designer who approached costume as more than clothing. I would like my work to be recognized for combining historical research, material innovation, and storytelling in a way that encourages people to think differently about the relationship between the body, culture, and visual expression.
My dream project is one that I have not fully created yet—a large interdisciplinary work that brings together history, performance, sculpture, technology, and installation design. I think the most exciting projects are always the ones that still feel slightly beyond your current abilities, because they continue to push you to learn and grow as a designer.
What are your advices to designers who are at the beginning of their career?
My advice to young designers is to stay curious and be patient with your development.
Many people focus on developing a recognizable style as quickly as possible, but I think it is more important to build knowledge first. Read widely, visit museums, travel when possible, study history, observe people, and learn from fields outside of design. Strong design often comes from having a broad understanding of the world rather than simply following visual trends.
One thing I would caution young designers about is comparing themselves too closely to others. Design careers develop at different speeds, and growth is rarely linear. Some of the most valuable lessons come from projects that do not go as planned. Learning how to adapt, solve problems, and continue improving is more important than achieving quick success.
A piece of advice that has stayed with me is that research is never wasted. Even if only a small part of your research appears in the final design, the knowledge you gain will strengthen your thinking and help you make more meaningful decisions. This idea has influenced the way I approach every project.
I am also fascinated by mythology, symbols, and totemic imagery. Across different cultures, people have used symbols, animals, and visual rituals to express beliefs, identity, and collective memory. Studying these systems has helped me understand how visual language can communicate complex ideas without words. This interest continues to influence the way I think about storytelling and design.
To continue growing, I try to remain a student even when I am working professionally. I read, visit exhibitions, study historical garments, observe nature, and explore subjects outside my immediate field. For me, becoming a better designer is closely connected to becoming a more curious and knowledgeable person.
You are truly successful as a designer, what do you suggest to fellow designers, artists and architects?
One piece of advice I would give to fellow designers is to avoid becoming trapped by aesthetics alone. Visual appeal is important, but design becomes much more powerful when it is supported by strong ideas, research, and a clear purpose.
I also believe that designers should cultivate interests beyond their own discipline. Some of the most valuable insights in my work have come from history, mythology, literature, travel, museums, wildlife observation, and cultural studies rather than from design itself. The broader your knowledge, the richer your creative vocabulary becomes.
Another important principle is to remain curious and adaptable. Technologies, trends, and industries will continue to change, but curiosity remains relevant throughout an entire career. The designers who continue learning are often the ones who continue growing.
I would also encourage designers to spend more time observing and less time imitating. It is easy to be influenced by what is currently popular, but lasting work usually comes from developing a unique perspective. Originality is often the result of combining knowledge, experience, and personal interests in a way that nobody else can replicate.
Finally, I think designers should embrace complexity rather than seek shortcuts. Meaningful work rarely emerges from the fastest solution. It comes from asking better questions, conducting deeper research, and remaining open to unexpected discoveries throughout the creative process.
For me, the most successful designers are not necessarily those with the strongest personal brand or the most recognizable style. They are the ones who remain intellectually curious, continue evolving, and use design as a way to explore and understand the world.
What is your day to day look like?
My days are usually a mixture of planning, making, and problem-solving.
I often begin by checking messages from collaborators and reviewing what needs immediate attention. Some days are focused on fittings, sourcing garments, or communicating with production teams. Other days are spent developing concepts, preparing presentations, or organizing upcoming projects.
One thing I enjoy about my profession is that the work changes constantly. I might spend the morning searching through rental houses and fabric suppliers, then spend the afternoon sewing, modifying garments, or preparing for a photoshoot or production meeting.
I also enjoy the quieter moments of the day. Sometimes I will discover an interesting exhibition, read an article about a historical figure, or come across an unusual image that sparks a completely new idea. Those unexpected moments often become the starting point for future projects.
The most satisfying part of my day is seeing progress. Whether it is solving a difficult construction problem, finding the perfect garment for a character, or watching a design come together during a fitting, I enjoy the feeling that an idea is gradually becoming real.
What keeps the work exciting is that every project introduces different people, challenges, and stories. Even after years of working in design, there is always something new to learn.
How do you keep up with latest design trends? To what extent do design trends matter?
I pay attention to design trends, but I do not treat them as a starting point for my work.
Of course, I follow what is happening in contemporary fashion, art, film, and visual culture. I visit exhibitions, read industry publications, and observe how aesthetics evolve across different creative fields. It is important to understand the cultural moment you are working in.
However, I think trends are most useful as indicators rather than instructions. They can reveal what people are thinking about, what materials are emerging, or what conversations are taking place, but I do not believe designers should follow trends blindly.
As a costume designer, I am often working with stories that are connected to history, mythology, literature, or specific characters. Because of this, the needs of the project are usually more important than what happens to be fashionable at a particular moment.
I am more interested in developing a personal design language that can continue evolving over time. Some ideas may become trendy for a season and disappear a year later, while themes such as identity, power, desire, memory, and human behavior remain relevant regardless of trends.
When looking for inspiration, I am just as likely to find it in an old museum collection, a forgotten historical photograph, a piece of folklore, or an encounter during travel as I am in contemporary design media. I think the strongest work often comes from combining influences from different periods rather than following what is currently popular.
For me, trends are worth understanding, but they should never replace independent thinking. A designer should know what is happening in the world while still maintaining their own voice.
How do you know if a product or project is well designed? How do you define good design?
For me, good design begins with clarity of intention. The first question I ask is simple: Does the design achieve what it is trying to do?
A design does not need to be visually complex or innovative to be successful. If it communicates its purpose effectively and creates the intended experience, it has already achieved something important.
When evaluating a project, I usually look at three things: concept, execution, and coherence. A strong concept provides direction, thoughtful execution demonstrates skill, and coherence ensures that all elements work together rather than competing with one another.
The moment that makes me think, "That's a good design," is when every decision feels necessary. Nothing appears arbitrary. The form, materials, details, and overall experience all seem to support the same idea.
One common mistake is focusing too much on appearance while neglecting purpose. It is possible for something to be visually striking but conceptually weak. Another mistake is adding unnecessary elements that distract from the core idea. In my experience, strong design is often the result of careful editing rather than adding more.
As a costume designer, I also pay attention to whether a design creates meaning beyond itself. The projects I admire most are those that reveal something about people, culture, history, or human experience. They remain interesting not because they follow a trend, but because they communicate an idea that continues to resonate over time.
Ultimately, I believe good design is intentional, coherent, and meaningful. It should make people feel, think, or understand something that they did not before encountering it.
How do you decide if your design is ready?
I do not believe a design is ever perfect, but I do believe there is a moment when it becomes complete.
For me, that moment comes when the design successfully communicates its core idea and every major decision supports that intention. At a certain point, additional changes no longer make the work stronger—they simply make it different.
During the design process, I often ask myself whether a new modification genuinely improves the project or whether I am changing something simply because I have spent a long time looking at it. Learning to recognize that difference is important.
In costume design, there is also a practical aspect. A design must eventually move from concept to reality. It needs to function for performers, support the production, and exist within the constraints of time and resources. Part of being a professional designer is knowing when to refine and when to move forward.
That said, I rarely look back at old projects and think they are completely finished. As I gain more experience, I can always imagine alternative solutions or new directions. I think this is a natural part of creative growth rather than a sign that the work was unsuccessful.
As for success, I do not measure it only by awards, recognition, or audience response. A project feels successful when the final result captures the essence of the original idea while still surprising me in some way. If the work communicates what I hoped it would communicate and creates a meaningful experience for others, I consider it successful.
In many ways, design is a balance between ambition and acceptance. There is always another detail to improve, but eventually you have to trust the work, let it go, and begin the next project.
What is your biggest design work?
One of the most significant projects in my practice is Foam of Desire, a costume-based artwork inspired by Sir Epicure Mammon from Ben Jonson's The Alchemist.
What makes this project special to me is that it brought together many of the interests that have shaped my work over the years: historical costume, material experimentation, sculpture, and narrative. Rather than creating a traditional costume, I wanted to explore how clothing could function as a physical manifestation of desire, excess, and decay.
The project began with historical research into seventeenth-century European aristocratic dress. I studied period garment structures and then deliberately distorted and expanded them. The challenge was to maintain recognizable historical references while transforming them into something contemporary and unsettling.
A major part of the design process involved material experimentation. I worked extensively with an unconventional fabric that could be manipulated while wet and permanently fixed after drying. Through numerous tests, I developed translucent bubble-like forms that created an appearance somewhere between luxury, flesh, and deterioration. Much of the project evolved through trial and error, and the material itself often influenced the final direction of the work.
What I am most proud of is that the piece operates on multiple levels. From a distance, it appears colorful, extravagant, and visually attractive. Upon closer inspection, viewers begin to notice a sense of excess, instability, and discomfort. That tension between attraction and unease was central to the concept.
I consider it one of my most important works because it represents a point where historical research, conceptual thinking, and technical experimentation came together successfully. It also pushed me beyond conventional costume design and closer to the territory of sculpture and contemporary art.
At the same time, I am excited about current projects that explore speculative futures and world-building through costume design. Moving between historical subjects and imagined futures continues to be one of the most rewarding aspects of my practice, because both require creating visual systems that help audiences understand unfamiliar worlds.
Who is your favourite designer?
This may sound unconventional, but I do not have a single favorite designer.
Of course, I admire many artists, designers, and creators throughout history, and I learn from their work. However, I have never been interested in following one individual as a model. I believe every designer should eventually develop their own voice rather than spend their career trying to become a second version of someone else.
What inspires me most is not a particular designer, but the idea of pushing beyond existing boundaries and creating work that contributes something new to the conversation.
If I am being honest, my goal is not to find an idol. My goal is to become the kind of designer whose work inspires future generations. I hope that one day a young designer might look at my projects and discover something that encourages them to think differently or take creative risks.
I think admiration is valuable, but originality is even more important. The designers who leave the greatest impact are often the ones who stop following established paths and begin creating their own. That is the direction I hope to pursue throughout my career.
Would you tell us a bit about your lifestyle and culture?
I would describe my lifestyle as curious, observant, and constantly moving between different interests. Outside of design, I enjoy traveling, visiting museums, exploring historical sites, observing wildlife, and learning about different cultures. These experiences often influence the way I see the world and, ultimately, the way I approach design.
Having lived and studied in China, the United Kingdom, Europe, and the United States, I feel that my work has been shaped by multiple cultural perspectives. Chinese culture gave me an appreciation for symbolism, craftsmanship, and historical continuity, while my experiences abroad introduced me to different approaches to art, performance, and critical thinking. Rather than identifying with a single cultural viewpoint, I am interested in the dialogue between them.
If I had to choose a city that inspires me, it would probably be London. It is a place where history and contemporary culture coexist in a very natural way. I spent several formative years there, and its museums, theaters, archives, and multicultural environment had a lasting impact on me.
Music is also an important part of my creative process, although not in a direct way. I often listen to music while researching, sketching, or developing concepts. Different types of music help create different mental spaces, and sometimes a rhythm, atmosphere, or emotion can influence the mood of a project.
At the moment, I am based in Los Angeles and working on a variety of costume design projects across theater and film. One of the things I enjoy most about my current work is moving between different worlds—from historical subjects to speculative futures, from stage productions to screen projects.
I believe good design is important because it shapes how people experience the world. Design influences the objects we use, the environments we inhabit, and the stories we tell about ourselves. Even small design decisions can affect behavior, communication, and perception.
In my own life, design has taught me to pay attention to details, to think more intentionally, and to appreciate the relationship between function and meaning. Good design is not only about making things beautiful—it is about helping people understand, connect, and imagine new possibilities.
Would you tell us more about your work culture and business philosophy?
I would describe my work philosophy as collaborative, responsible, and concept-driven.
Although design often begins with individual ideas, I believe the strongest projects are created through collaboration. Most of my work involves directors, producers, performers, fabricators, and other creative professionals. Because of this, communication is just as important as creativity. I value people who are reliable, open-minded, and genuinely invested in the success of a project.
I think I am relatively easy to work with because I am adaptable and solution-oriented. Creative projects rarely go exactly as planned, so I try to focus on finding practical solutions rather than becoming attached to a single idea. At the same time, I care deeply about quality and expect the same level of commitment from collaborators.
When selecting collaborators, I pay more attention to attitude than reputation. Technical skills can always be developed, but curiosity, professionalism, respect for others, and a willingness to learn are qualities that are much harder to teach. I enjoy working with people who bring their own perspectives and are not afraid to contribute ideas.
One thing that should never be forgotten about my approach to work is that I value substance over appearance. Whether designing a costume, an exhibition, or a visual concept, I believe every decision should have a purpose. A strong project is not simply beautiful—it communicates something meaningful.
One of the core challenges of my profession is balancing artistic ambition with practical realities. Designers must constantly navigate budgets, schedules, technical limitations, and collaboration while still protecting the integrity of the creative vision.
As for the qualities of a good designer, I would place curiosity above almost everything else. Curiosity leads to learning, and learning leads to better design. Beyond that, I think observation, discipline, resilience, adaptability, and strong communication skills are all essential. Design is not only about creating beautiful things; it is about understanding people, solving problems, and continuously expanding the way we see the world.
What are your philanthropic contributions to society as a designer, artist and architect?
I believe designers have a responsibility not only to create new things, but also to think about the impact those creations have on people and the environment.
In my own practice, I am increasingly interested in sustainability, reuse, and material lifespan. Costume production can generate a significant amount of waste, so I try to consider how garments can be repurposed, modified, or given a second life rather than being discarded after a single use. I am interested in exploring how creative work can be produced with greater environmental awareness while maintaining artistic quality.
I also believe that artists and designers can play an important role in humanitarian and environmental conversations. Design has the ability to attract attention, communicate complex ideas, and encourage people to care about issues they might otherwise overlook.
One project that left a strong impression on me was learning about artists and volunteers who knitted protective sweaters for penguins affected by oil spills. I was fascinated by the idea that a creative skill could be used in such a direct and practical way to support wildlife conservation. It demonstrated that design and craftsmanship are not only cultural activities—they can also have tangible benefits for living communities and ecosystems.
Looking toward the future, I would be interested in participating in projects that combine design, environmental awareness, wildlife conservation, and education. I am particularly interested in initiatives that use creativity to help people better understand their relationship with nature and the world around them.
For me, giving back as a designer does not necessarily mean creating more objects. Sometimes it means using design to raise awareness, support communities, encourage sustainable thinking, and create positive change on a small but meaningful scale.
What positive experiences you had when you attend the A' Design Award?
Participating in the A’ Design Award was a very positive experience because it allowed my work to reach an international audience beyond my immediate professional and academic circles.
One of the biggest benefits of design competitions is visibility. Design can often exist within a relatively small network, but international awards provide opportunities for projects to be seen by people from different countries, disciplines, and industries. This creates valuable connections and conversations that might not happen otherwise.
A second benefit is reflection. Preparing a project for competition requires designers to clearly articulate their ideas, process, and goals. I found that this process encouraged me to think critically about my own work and better understand the strengths and weaknesses of a project.
The third benefit is professional development. Design competitions expose designers to a wide range of approaches and perspectives. Seeing work from other designers around the world can be both educational and motivating, encouraging continual growth and experimentation.
I believe design competitions remain relevant because they create platforms for dialogue. They bring together designers from different backgrounds and provide opportunities to share ideas, challenge assumptions, and explore new directions for the field.
Being recognized as a Designer of the Day was both exciting and encouraging. More than the title itself, I appreciated the opportunity to share my work and creative process with a wider audience. Recognition is meaningful, but what I value most is the chance to contribute to larger conversations about design, creativity, and innovation.
Ultimately, I see awards not as a final destination, but as milestones within a much longer creative journey. The most important outcome is not the recognition itself, but the opportunities for learning, exchange, and future growth that come from participating.