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Reinterpretation Of Changshan جامې by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan جامې by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 د برونز A' Design Award جایزه in د فېشن، جامو او پوشاک ډیزاین Competition Category.


برونزفېشن· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan جامې

by Tong Tong

د برونز A' Design Award جایزه Winner in فېشن Category

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Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #159036

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan جامې

دا ډیزاین د چانګشان، یوې درناوي لرونکې دودیزې چینایي نارینه جامې، د تل پاتې زیبایي ته درناوی کوي. د دې ښکلی بڼه په یادولو سره، دا نوی تشریح میراث او نوښت په بې بدیله توګه یوځای کوي. عمودی درزونه او په محتاطه توګه مدغم شوي جیبونه د ساده والي ساتلو سره سره عملیت ډیروي. د لوړ تاو ولری توئیل څخه جوړ شوی، دا جوړښتی ملاتړ او بې چروکه بڼه وړاندې کوي. د خیاطۍ دقیقو طریقو له لارې، د یقې د بیا تصور کولو ننګونه د اسانه منحنی خطونو او جوړښتی بشپړتیا ډاډمن کولو سره له منځه وړل کیږي.

The Recognition

About the د برونز A' Design Award جایزه

Reinterpretation Of Changshan جامې د برونز A' Design Award جایزې ګټونکی دی، یوه ډېره ویاړلې پېژندنه چې غوره ډیزاینونو ته ورکول کېږي چې په خلاقیت، هوښیارۍ او زیرکتیا ځانګړي دي. د برونز ګټونکي ډېر ماهر او په حیرانوونکي ډول خلاقي آثار دي چې د خپلو ډیزاینرانو پراخ تجربه، تخیل او چارواکتیا تاییدوي. له Reinterpretation Of Changshan جامې څخه تمه کېږي چې یو ډېر ارزښتناک، ستایل شوی او ګران شی وي چې په پام وړ ډول مسلکي او نوښتګر دی. دا د برونز A' Design Award جایزې ګټونکی ډیزاین په هنر، ساینس، ډیزاین او ټیکنالوژۍ کې غوره کړنلارې یو ځای کوي او د جزیاتو ته د پاملرنې له امله غوره دی. Reinterpretation Of Changshan جامې اړتیاوې په ښکلي ډول پوره کوي، هیلو ته رسېږي، احساسات ځانته ملګري کوي او لیوالتیا راپاروي.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging
Full-body Length
Tags
Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology
A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge
The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research
Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration
This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration
This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow
The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members
Tong Tong
Image Credits
Image #1-5 Photographer:Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023

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