Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاڪ by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاڪ by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award برونز انعام in فيشن، لباس ۽ پوشاڪ ڊيزائن Competition Category.

برونزفيشن· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاڪ

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award برونز انعام Winner in فيشن Category

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Verified Award Winner
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View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاڪ

هي ڊزائين چانگشان جي هميشہ قائم رهندڙ نفاست کي عزت ڏئي ٿي، جيڪا روايتي چيني مردن جو لباس آهي جنهن جو تمام گهڻو احترام ڪيو وڃي ٿو. ان جي نفيس شڪل و صورت کي ياد ڪندي، هي نئين تشريح ورثي کي جدت سان بيحد خوبصورتيءَ سان ملائي ٿي. عمودي سِلائيون ۽ چپت طريقي سان شامل ڪيل جيبون ڪارڪردگيءَ کي بهتر بڻائين ٿيون جڏهن ته سادگي قائم رکي ٿي. اعليٰ موڙ واري اون جي ٽوئل مان تيار ڪيل، اها ڍانچي جي مدد ۽ شِڪن کان پاڪ ظاهر مهيا ڪري ٿي. محتاط درزي گري جي طريقن جي ذريعي، ڳچيءَ جي لڪير کي نئين انداز ۾ ٺاهڻ جي چيلنج تي قابو حاصل ڪيو وڃي ٿو جڏهن ته نرم وکرن ۽ ڍانچي جي مضبوطي ٻنهي کي يقيني بڻايو وڃي ٿو.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award برونز انعام

Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاڪ A' Design Award برونز انعام جو کٽيندڙ آهي، تمام گهڻو معزز اعتراف جيڪو تخليقيت، اختراع ۽ ذڪاوت سان ممتاز بهترين ڊيزائنن کي ڏنو وڃي ٿو. برونز جا کٽيندڙ ڀرپور مهارت واريون ۽ نمايان طور تخليقي شاهڪار آهن، جيڪي پنهنجي ڊيزائنرن جي وسيع تجربي، تخيل ۽ ڏاهپ جي تصديق ڪن ٿيون. Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاڪ کان اميد ڪئي وڃي ٿي ته اهو هڪ تمام گهڻو قدر ڪيل، ساراهيل ۽ پيارو شيءِ هوندو، قابل ذڪر حد تائين پيشه ورانه ۽ جدت وارو. هي ڊيزائن جنهن A' Design Award برونز انعام کٽيو آهي، فن، سائنس، ڊيزائن ۽ ٽيڪنالاجي ۾ بهترين طريقا شامل ڪري ٿو ۽ ننڍين تفصيلن ڏانهن ڌيان ڏيڻ ڪري شاندار آهي. Reinterpretation Of Changshan پوشاڪ ضرورتون خوبصورتيءَ سان پوريون ڪري ٿو، خواهشن کي ڇهي ٿو، جذبن کي موهي ٿو ۽ تجسس ڇڪي ٿو.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023