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Shapes of Light Khăn Choàng Trang Trí by Xiaoxi Zhang

Shapes of Light Khăn Choàng Trang Trí by Xiaoxi Zhang is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2022 A' Design Award Sắt in Thiết kế Phụ kiện Competition Category.


SắtPhụ kiện· 2022

Shapes of Light Khăn Choàng Trang Trí

by Xiaoxi Zhang

Client: Johnstons of Elgin

A' Design Award Sắt Winner in Phụ kiện Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Shapes of Light Khăn Choàng Trang Trí

Shapes of Light là một bộ sưu tập khăn choàng dệt từ cashmere. Bộ sưu tập bao gồm ba thiết kế lấy cảm hứng từ những khung cảnh thiên nhiên và đô thị: bình minh trên biển, ánh đèn các tòa nhà trong thành phố về đêm, và ánh trăng dịu nhẹ buổi tối. Các ý tưởng minh họa được chuyển thể thành những họa tiết dệt hình học và tối giản để phù hợp với yêu cầu kỹ thuật dệt. Mỗi chiếc khăn được nhuộm và dệt tại một xưởng dệt ở Scotland, bề mặt được làm phồng bằng phương pháp chải lông thủ công truyền thống với cây kế gai để tạo lớp hoàn thiện mềm mại. Mục tiêu là biến một phụ kiện thường ngày thành một tác phẩm nghệ thuật có thể mặc trên người.

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award Sắt

Shapes of Light Khăn Choàng Trang Trí là người chiến thắng giải thưởng A' Design Award Sắt, một sự công nhận danh giá dành cho các thiết kế tốt đáp ứng các yêu cầu chuyên môn và công nghiệp được kỳ vọng từ các sáng tạo được thiết kế tốt. Những người chiến thắng giải Sắt thể hiện kỹ năng tuyệt vời, chuyên môn hóa cao, sự thấu hiểu chuyên gia và năng lực sáng tạo của người tạo ra chúng. Shapes of Light Khăn Choàng Trang Trí được kỳ vọng là một sáng tạo được đánh giá cao, ngưỡng mộ và trân trọng, thực tế và đổi mới. Thiết kế chiến thắng giải thưởng A' Design Award Sắt này tích hợp các thực hành tốt nhất của ngành và có các đặc tính kỹ thuật thành thạo gắn liền với bí quyết và tài năng. Shapes of Light Khăn Choàng Trang Trí được kính trọng vì sự kỹ lưỡng và được thiết kế để mang lại những cải thiện chất lượng cuộc sống giúp biến thế giới thành một nơi tốt đẹp hơn.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
"Shapes of Light" is Nancy Zhang's special collaboration design series with the Scottish cashmere expert brand Johnstons of Elgins.

For the first time, Nancy expressed her illustration arts with textile technology. The theme of this collaboration "The shape of light" is an extension of her personal illustration project "Light seeker". She made 3 designs to express diverse forms of light: The sunrise on the sea, building lights in the city at night and the soft moonlight in the evening. Light shapes how the environment looks to us, yet the environment we constructed reshapes light in turn at the same time. Does light shape our appearance, or do we construct what light looks like?

It is not only a fashion design collaboration, but also an artistic endeavour.
Dimensions & Packaging
Sunrise and Moonlight: Length 190mm x Width 35mm
Building light: Length 180mm x Width 25cm
Tags
Light, textile, geometric, cashmere, woven, gradient, artistic, scarf, abstract
Production Technology
Woven cashmere scarf series. The whole transforming process was like purification of the visual expressions. From dyeing to blending, carding to spinning, warping to weaving, knitting to teaselling and cutting to folding-it all happens in Johnstons of Elgins.

2 Ombres(Sunrise and Moonlight):
Manufactured in Johsntons of Elgin, the craft design department and dye house worked together to create a unique blend of colours for the Ombre Oversized Classic Scarves. With the advanced jacquard machine, we can weave over 10 colours in one scarf and each colour is dyed in Elgin mill. From fiber to final products, on average of 33 craftspeople contribute to the making of each of our cashmere scarves. The signature ripple finish is achieved by using traditional hand-worked teasels to gently raise the surface or 'nap' of the completed accessory, achieving a beautifully soft handle.

Building light:
Manufactured in Johsntons of Elgin, the craft design department and dye house worked together to create a unique blend of colours for the Ombre Oversized Classic Scarves. On average of 33 craftspeople contribute to the making of each of our cashmere scarves. The mill uses use dobby loom to weave this particular cashmere scarf, and each colour is dyed in Elgin mill. The signature ripple finish is achieved by using traditional hand-worked teasels to gently raise the surface or 'nap' of the completed accessory, achieving a beautifully soft handle.
Design Challenge
As an illustrator and visual artist, the biggest challenge of this textile design collaboration was transforming the illustrations into woven textile patterns without losing the original conceptual expressions.

Considering the limitations of woven technology, we had to minimize the genomic shapes for the designs as much as possible. However, it turned out to be quite an enjoyable and meaningful challenge for us both. The whole transforming process was like purification of my visual expressions, which is the charm of the textile design.
Research
In my opinion, this design series is not just a commercial collaboration but my attempt to seek a new form of project creation, transforming my personal project into a tangible painting. As the oldest form of humanistic art, textiles have always been very mature in the transformation of technology and contents. Product design is a way for us to touch and use literary and artistic creations in modern society. I call this collaboration series "The Shape of Light” as an extension of the theme of my personal painting project "Light Seekers". And all my research from my personal experiences in nature went into this: during traveling the seaside in the Izu Peninsula, a building lights view in Shanghai and the clear summer moonlight in Berlin. These physic phenomenon were turned into graphical ideas in my mind while I was looking at them. In other words, I would have painted them anyway with or without this design collaboration. It was a pleasure to work with the Johnstons of Elgin team, JOE is a cashmere textile expert in the industry. During the cooperation, I was able to entrust the technical realisation and manufacturing part to professionals. That was the ideal teamwork experience.
Inspiration
Design 1 Sunrise-The inspiration of this one comes from the natural phenomenon- the sunrise on the sea, visualised the graphics with stripes and gradient colours.

Design 2 Building Light-The inspiration comes from the city night view-warm building lights from people's perspective outside, design with plaid graphic.

Design 3 Moonlight- The inspiration was also from he natural phenomenon-soft moonlight in summer evening without clouds,
design with gradient colours.
Project Duration
This project designs started in February 2021 in Berlin, Germany and the products finished in September 2021 in Elgin, Scotland. Currently the goods are available in Shanghai, China.
Operation Flow
Scarves are one of the most common accessories to keep us warm during the winter type. Yet these kinds of daily, simple accessories could be "tangible", "wearable" art pieces as well. Based on "Movable Gallery on body" this key idea, the abstract drawings about different shapes of light were created, however, afterwards the graphics were slightly modified regarding to the woven technology requirements.Actually the final result turned out more minimal than before and it also gave people more space for imagining.Special thanks to the reliable collaboration team, it took more than 30 manufacturing steps and 33 craftspeople's involved in total to achieve the final results and everything went smoothly.
Patents
Johnstons of Elgin (2021) Jenny Urquhart
Team Members
Concept Artist/Creative Director:Xiaoxi Zhang
Craft Designer: Laura Garner
Craft Designer: Aisling Watt
Image Credits
Design&Illustration by Xiaoxi (Nancy) Zhang
Photography by Teasels(Shanghai) Trading Company Limited

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