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Catalina Paladi 的作品 Turquerie 女装系列

设计师 Catalina Paladi 的作品 Turquerie 女装系列 荣获了极具声望的 2021 A' Design Award 银奖,竞赛类别为时装、服饰与服装设计。


银时装· 2021

Turquerie 女装系列

设计师: Catalina Paladi

客户: Catalina Paladi

时装类别A' Design Award 银奖获奖者

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验证 #112264 的获奖状态

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关于 Turquerie 女装系列

Turquerie 是一个以奥斯曼帝国视觉文化为灵感的女装系列。该系列由六款廓形、十件定制单品组成,尺码涵盖特小码至中码。提花、丝绒与雪纺等奢华面料营造出色彩对比与流动感,令简约的造型与利落的现代线条更显丰盈。不同密度与透明度的面料层层叠加,配以造型化的袖型与荷叶边,赋予服装灵动的韵律。由于面料娇贵,许多针脚均以手工缝制完成。

荣誉认可

关于A' Design Award 银奖

Turquerie 女装系列是 A' Design Award 银奖得主,这是授予顶级、华美而令人印象深刻的设计的极为崇高的认可。银奖得主是极其卓越、极具创造力的作品,展现出其设计师杰出的专业技能、才华与敏锐。预计Turquerie 女装系列将成为一件出色的典范之作,兼具非凡的专业性与深刻的创新性。这件赢得 A' Design Award 银奖的设计是一项备受瞩目、令人钦佩的发明,造福并拓展艺术、科学、设计和技术的边界。Turquerie 女装系列是一件令人羡慕的创作,它唤起渴望,带来积极的情感,并激发惊叹与赞叹。

设计幕后

媒体资料包

由设计师提供的致谢、团队成员及技术详情。

独特属性
Turquerie is a maximalist collection, dynamic, full of textile ornaments, colours, embellishments, accessories, jewelleries and other decorations, all intended to eloquently reflect the Ottoman influence sheltering a modern allure. Luxury materials such as jacquards, velvet, chiffon create both chromatic contrast and fluidity, furthermore enriching the simple shapes and the clean modern lines. Made of six silhouettes, it gives a wide range of outfits to choose from, for every occasion.
尺寸与包装
The entire collection consists of 6 looks, 10 custom made pieces. Size XS to M.
标签
Turquerie, velvet, jacquard, chiffon, modern, classic, couture.
生产技术
Due to the delicate nature of the fabrics, the collection has a lot of hand sewn stitches, approaching the old school techniques. It is composed of six silhouettes: 1. A modern velvet jumpsuit, 2. A classic velvet suit with jacquard vest with a mosque like ornament, 3. a jaquard tunic with chiffon layered sleeves, 4. a jaquard ornamented dress with a chiffon kaftan with ruffled sleeves, 5. A chiffon dress with a striped golden jacquard overcoat. 6. A chiffon maxi dress, with a long velvet vest.
设计挑战
Some of the challenges that arose during the process were: 1) the volume of labour was daunting for one person (CAD pattern making, cutting and sewing the cotton mock-ups, cutting and sewing the final pieces, multiple fittings and alterations); 2) the gentle and delicate fabrics needed special care (plenty of stitches had been hand sewn: velvet ). 3)the project involved an extensive research part as well, since it served as final course work for the author's Textile Engineering Degree.
研究
The research focuses on the Ottoman Empire: the tolerance they displayed towards vasal nations, the social role they attributed to women, the majesty of their culture and their ability to embrace foreign influences in order to enrich their own culture. This inspired the author to find balance between her Moldovan roots and her addictive love towards other cultures. Still, it was a risky yet good decision to pin the Ottoman inspiration against a Moldovan ethnic background for the campaign shooting.
灵感
The majestic Ottoman Empire served as inspiration for this collection. Tolerant ottoman politics implemented towards conquered territories resulted in a rich, colourful cultural life which upheld a harmonious interaction between the arts. Thus, a mix of byzantine, european and persan influences flourished in the turkish culture. The collection and its campaign illustrates both the refined esthetics of the Ottoman Empire and their open-minded approach to foreign cultures. Being shot in a folkloric Moldovan background, it emphasizes the importance of interaction between nations and encourages the viewer to open his heart to the multitude of the different cultures, since every person is a sum of the many peoples and nations that his ancestors had crossed. Evreyone has in his cells a richness of colour, energy and temper of so many unknown to him individuals who fill his genealogy up, people who had their joy and happiness, sufferings and burdens, but nevertheless, they had gifted the modern man a part of themselves.
项目周期
The project had begun in September 2016 and was completed in June 2017. It served as the final project for the Textile Engineering degree, part of the University graduation. The idea of placing the collection in the Moldovan rustic background for the campaign came in early 2020, whilst the shooting took place in September 2020.
操作流程
The collection dynamics are conveyed by the layering of fabrics which differ in density, opacity and colour. The dynamics are obtained by the stylization of the sleeves, which creates a rhythmic movement of flounces; different velvet textures; expressive jacquards and a playful dance of transparencies.
图片版权
Image #1, #2, #3, #4, #5
Photographer: Sergiu Rotaru, 2020
Styling: Corina Croitor
Model: Sabrina Danilova
Model: Valeria Untu
Model: Maria-Magdalena Cucu
Video credits: Corina Croitor
Video Montage: Selina Paladi

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