Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin 的作品 Random Puff 4D刺绣服装

设计师 Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin 的作品 Random Puff 4D刺绣服装荣获了极具声望的 2023 A' Design Award 铁奖，竞赛类别为纺织品、面料、纹理、图案与织物设计。

铁纺织· 2023

Random Puff 4D刺绣服装

设计师： Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin

客户: MIT Media Lab

纺织类别A' Design Award 铁奖获奖者

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关于 Random Puff 4D刺绣服装

RandomPuff是一款新颖的填充物，采用4D刺绣填充物进行服装保暖。泡芙最初被制成扁平状，并在受热时弹出成圆顶状。激活的烟雾将空气困在外部环境和佩戴者之间，以保持身体温暖。该开发涉及创建“活性纤维”和“静态织物”之间相互作用的 4D 刺绣材料库。设计师和开发人员可以使用计算设计工具与最终用户协作，创造高科技时尚、个性化和可持续的新颖纺织品和纺织品设计。

荣誉认可

关于A' Design Award 铁奖

Random Puff 4D刺绣服装是 A' Design Award 铁奖得主，这是授予满足人们对设计精良的创作所期待的专业与工业要求的优良设计的声望认可。铁奖得主展现出其创作者的高超技艺、高度专业化、专家级的理解力和创造能力。预计Random Puff 4D刺绣服装将成为一件备受推崇、令人钦佩且被珍爱的创作，既实用又创新。这件赢得 A' Design Award 铁奖的设计整合了行业最佳实践，并拥有与专业知识和才华相结合的称职技术特性。Random Puff 4D刺绣服装因其严谨而受到尊重，旨在提供有助于让世界变得更美好的生活品质改善。

设计幕后

媒体资料包

由设计师提供的致谢、团队成员及技术详情。

独特属性: Random Puff is a garment application leveraging the puffy transformation that traps air within the dome pocket to keep the body warm. The double curvature geometry becomes easily fabricated, and personalizable styling is available through the computational design process, which opens up a new design/manufacturing space for a puffy garment.
尺寸与包装: 500mm x 30mm x 700mm. However, since it's a garment, it can be fold into the size of 300mm x 20mm x 200mm.
标签: 4D embroidery
生产技术: Heat-shrink thread. Neoprene. Machine embroidery. Processing visualizer.
设计挑战: First, the force balance between active thread and static fabric is a fundamental challenge. There is too much fabric out there with labeled information that does not necessarily lead to our purpose. Second, tension issues happen when new threads or fabric are introduced to the machine. It takes a while to calibrate, and sometimes break the machine if the thread is too thick/thin, or the fabric is too thick/slippery/crispy. Third, to achieve the maximized bi-layer bending, we want to vary the force on both sides so that the inner side does not constraint the outer side.
研究: Research background:
This research demonstrates how machine embroidery with heat-shrinking fibers enables existing fabrics to be augmented with morphing fibers.

Methods/Tools:
Similar to sewing, embroidery is a technique of interlacing upper and bottom threads with the substrate in between, but digitally. For the hardware, a desktop, hobbyist embroidery machine can easily execute wanted samples. For the software, I mainly explored PEmbroidery and Inkstitch for different purposes. PEmbroider is an open-source library housed in Processing that offers a procedural coding environment to generate detailed embroidered files at point and line levels. Inkstitch is also an open-source plug-in embedded in Inkscape that provides a graphical user interface, which is more friendly for primary users.

Results/Insight:
I started off the material characterization by testing different substrates with the same embroidery parameters. Out of 10+ fabrics, fabrics that are lightweight with high springness can hold the morphed structure better. A series of embroidery parameters were also tested systematically with stroke width, density, peak-to-peak distance, stitch spacing, and threading material. The fiber actuator can be tuned from crease(low res) to bend(high res) in a linear pattern. The fiber can be arranged in curves, origami creases, or arbitrary shapes to form more complex pop-up geometry.
灵感: Working at a NIKE shoe industry, I realized the challenge of transformation between 3D to 2D or vice versa. There's still no clear solution for the tedious, laborious, wasteful process from prototyping to production.

Working as a R&D at a carbon fiber company, I got to witness the power of machine embroidery, where it can digitally place fibers. This way, it can reinforce the artifact in any direction, replace the lamination thus reducing the material waste, and digitalize the process from start to end.
项目周期: The project started in September 2021 and finished in December 2021 in Cambridge, MA, United States.
操作流程: First, a closed-curve set of circles, squares, or other arbitrary shapes is generated within the area of a 2D clothing. Second, the design file will be translated to an embroidery file via Processing, a visual output, and procedural coding environment. Third, upload the file to a desktop hobbyist embroidery machine and start embroidery. Lastly, the garment comes out flat from the machine and users can customize where to activate the puffs by heating the embroidery pattern with a steamer or iron.
团队成员: Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin
Skylar Tibbits
Jack Forman
Hiroshi Ishii
图片版权: All IP, copyright, images, video credits belong to Rosalie Hsin-Ju Lin.