Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服装 by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服装 by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 A' Design Award 铜奖 in 时装、服饰与服装设计 Competition Category.

铜时装· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服装

by Tong Tong

A' Design Award 铜奖 Winner in 时装 Category

92,381

Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #159036

View at A' Design Award Press Release Award Badge

Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服装

本设计致敬长衫这一备受推崇的中国传统男装所具有的永恒优雅。作品在唤起其精致廓形的同时，将传统底蕴与创新巧妙融合。竖向分割线与隐蔽式口袋的设计在提升功能性的同时，保持了含蓄内敛的美感。选用高捻羊毛斜纹面料制作，赋予服装良好的支撑结构与免烫抗皱的外观。通过精细的裁剪工艺，成功攻克了领口重塑的难题，既确保了圆润流畅的曲线，又兼顾了结构的稳固完整。

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 铜奖

Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服装是 A' Design Award 铜奖得主，这是授予以创造力、独创性和敏锐见长的杰出设计的极具声望的认可。铜奖得主是技艺娴熟、创意惊人的作品，印证了其设计师丰富的经验、想象力与机智。预计Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服装将成为一件备受推崇、令人钦佩且被珍爱的物品，兼具显著的专业性与创新性。这件赢得 A' Design Award 铜奖的设计融入艺术、科学、设计和技术领域的最佳实践，并因注重细节而出类拔萃。Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服装出色地满足需求，触动渴望，迷住情感，并吸引好奇心。

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023