Ataraxia 珠宝收藏 by Yilan Liu is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2020 A' Design Award 金奖 in 珠宝设计 Competition Category.

金珠宝· 2020

Ataraxia 珠宝收藏

by Yilan Liu

Client: Yilan Jewelry

A' Design Award 金奖 Winner in 珠宝 Category

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Verified Award Winner
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Colors

The Design

About Ataraxia 珠宝收藏

该项目将时尚与先进技术相结合，旨在创造可将旧哥特式元素转变为新风格的珠宝作品，并探讨传统元素在当代环境中的潜力。由于对哥特式氛围如何影响听众的兴趣，该项目试图通过有趣的互动来激发独特的个人体验，探索设计与佩戴者之间的关系。合成宝石作为一种较低的生态烙印材料，被切成不寻常的平坦表面，以将其颜色投射到皮肤上以增强相互作用。

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 金奖

Ataraxia 珠宝收藏是 A' Design Award 金奖得主，这是授予一流、绝妙而杰出设计的极为崇高的认可。金奖得主是极具创新、极富远见且璀璨夺目的创作，反映出其设计师的天才、智慧与才干。预计Ataraxia 珠宝收藏将成为一项备受赞誉、引领潮流、气势恢宏的发明，带来前所未有的价值。这件赢得 A' Design Award 金奖的设计是一个壮观而受人敬重的项目，极大地造福并拓展艺术、科学、设计和技术的边界。Ataraxia 珠宝收藏激起强烈的渴望，唤起激情，鼓励创造力，令我们着迷。

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Inspired by Gothic architecture, the collection encapsulates the sublime internal atmosphere, exploiting Gothic structural details to stimulate the particular feelings and explore emotional experience. Synthetic gemstones, as a lower eco-imprint material, were cut into unusually flat surfaces to cast their colors onto the skin to enhance the vibe. Immersive exploration of the precious culture is encouraged by the collection. The jewelry acts as a media to provoke unique individual experience. The design challenged the production to realize all the details to achieve the final result.
Dimensions & Packaging: Ring No.1: 41mm x 18mm x 30mm;
Ring No.2: 28mm x 28mm x 36mm;
Bangle: 75mm x 75mm x 22mm;
Earring: 21mm x 59mm x 8mm
Tags: jewelry, ring, bangle, earring, Gothic architecture, culture, emotional experience, eco-friendly, interaction, synthetic gemstones
Production Technology: The production lasted about one month including wax curving, casting, stone cutting, model modification, stone setting, metal finishing and gold plating. Some design details were adjusted during this process. The materials are synthetic gemstones including cubic zirconia, synthetic spinel and synthetic ruby which were cut into usually flat surfaces. For the metal part, the material is goldplated silver.
Design Challenge: The challenge was to realize all the design details to achieve the best result. There were many details in the design which made it difficult to well polish all the corners without damaging. After several experiments, I finally chose sand blasting as the main metal finishing which combined with full polish of the top faces of the settings, ensuring all the details as well as giving the collection a feel of flexibility. Also, the stone cutting process went through a lot of experiments to decide the thickness to gain the best effect.
Research: The research concentrated on Gothic culture and the purchasing behavior of customers towards contemporary jewelry from books, journals, online articles and relevant market data. The research showed the potential of making the old into the new in the perspectives of market and technology. Besides, the case studies were given on market, trend and manufacture with online research and interviews, as first-hand investigations underscoring the value of the project. All the research promoted the development of the project and completed the project in the academic way.
Inspiration: The collection was inspired by ancient Gothic architecture. This traditional style is fading with time, but it can be reborn in a new way with jewelry. Combining with fashion and advanced technology, the project aims to create jewelry pieces which can make the old into a new style, discussing the potential of the traditional in the contemporary context. With the interest in the way how the Gothic vibe influences audience and based on the vast research on Gothic culture, the project also tries to provoke unique individual experience through playful interaction, exploring the relationship between design and wearers.
Project Duration: The project started in October 2017 in London and finished in May 2019 in London, and was exhibited in Central Saint Martins Degree Show in June 2019 and was awarded as Distinction. The production was finished in China.
Operation Flow: The designs were inspired from Gothic architecture. Wearers will be easily attracted by its amazing appearance with elegant details. The pieces combine the old with the new, explaining the traditional culture with contemporary fashion language. When wearing the jewelry, the beautiful lines flow with the body, the bright colors cast onto the skin, creating a poetic experience for individuals. It is jewelry, but more than jewelry. It is a combination of culture, aesthetic, fashion and emotion.
Image Credits: #1, 2, 3, 4, 5: Photographer Xiaowu Yu, 2019