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Turquerie 女裝系列 by Catalina Paladi

Turquerie 女裝系列 by Catalina Paladi is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2021 A' Design Award 銀獎 in 時裝、服飾及成衣設計 Competition Category.


銀時裝· 2021

Turquerie 女裝系列

by Catalina Paladi

Client: Catalina Paladi

A' Design Award 銀獎 Winner in 時裝 Category

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Verified Award Winner

Verify Award Status for #112264

Colors

The Design

About Turquerie 女裝系列

Turquerie係一個以奧斯曼帝國視覺文化為靈感嘅女裝系列。此系列由六款輪廓造型同十件度身訂製嘅單品組成,尺碼由特小碼至中碼。提花、天鵝絨同雪紡等奢華物料營造出色彩對比同流動感,令簡約嘅款式同俐落嘅現代線條更加豐富。以唔同密度同透明度嘅布料層疊,配合造型化嘅衫袖同荷葉邊,賦予服飾一種律動感。由於布料嬌嫩,好多針步都係人手縫製。

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 銀獎

Turquerie 女裝系列是 A' Design Award 銀獎得主,這是授予頂級、華美而令人印象深刻的設計的極為崇高的認可。銀獎得主是極其卓越、極具創造力的作品,展現出其設計師傑出的專業技能、才華與敏銳。預計Turquerie 女裝系列將成為一件出色的典範之作,兼具非凡的專業性與深刻的創新性。這件贏得 A' Design Award 銀獎的設計是一項備受矚目、令人欽佩的發明,造福並拓展藝術、科學、設計和技術的界限。Turquerie 女裝系列是一件令人羨慕的創作,它喚起渴望,帶來積極的情感,並激發驚嘆與讚嘆。

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties
Turquerie is a maximalist collection, dynamic, full of textile ornaments, colours, embellishments, accessories, jewelleries and other decorations, all intended to eloquently reflect the Ottoman influence sheltering a modern allure. Luxury materials such as jacquards, velvet, chiffon create both chromatic contrast and fluidity, furthermore enriching the simple shapes and the clean modern lines. Made of six silhouettes, it gives a wide range of outfits to choose from, for every occasion.
Dimensions & Packaging
The entire collection consists of 6 looks, 10 custom made pieces. Size XS to M.
Tags
Turquerie, velvet, jacquard, chiffon, modern, classic, couture.
Production Technology
Due to the delicate nature of the fabrics, the collection has a lot of hand sewn stitches, approaching the old school techniques. It is composed of six silhouettes: 1. A modern velvet jumpsuit, 2. A classic velvet suit with jacquard vest with a mosque like ornament, 3. a jaquard tunic with chiffon layered sleeves, 4. a jaquard ornamented dress with a chiffon kaftan with ruffled sleeves, 5. A chiffon dress with a striped golden jacquard overcoat. 6. A chiffon maxi dress, with a long velvet vest.
Design Challenge
Some of the challenges that arose during the process were: 1) the volume of labour was daunting for one person (CAD pattern making, cutting and sewing the cotton mock-ups, cutting and sewing the final pieces, multiple fittings and alterations); 2) the gentle and delicate fabrics needed special care (plenty of stitches had been hand sewn: velvet ). 3)the project involved an extensive research part as well, since it served as final course work for the author's Textile Engineering Degree.
Research
The research focuses on the Ottoman Empire: the tolerance they displayed towards vasal nations, the social role they attributed to women, the majesty of their culture and their ability to embrace foreign influences in order to enrich their own culture. This inspired the author to find balance between her Moldovan roots and her addictive love towards other cultures. Still, it was a risky yet good decision to pin the Ottoman inspiration against a Moldovan ethnic background for the campaign shooting.
Inspiration
The majestic Ottoman Empire served as inspiration for this collection. Tolerant ottoman politics implemented towards conquered territories resulted in a rich, colourful cultural life which upheld a harmonious interaction between the arts. Thus, a mix of byzantine, european and persan influences flourished in the turkish culture. The collection and its campaign illustrates both the refined esthetics of the Ottoman Empire and their open-minded approach to foreign cultures. Being shot in a folkloric Moldovan background, it emphasizes the importance of interaction between nations and encourages the viewer to open his heart to the multitude of the different cultures, since every person is a sum of the many peoples and nations that his ancestors had crossed. Evreyone has in his cells a richness of colour, energy and temper of so many unknown to him individuals who fill his genealogy up, people who had their joy and happiness, sufferings and burdens, but nevertheless, they had gifted the modern man a part of themselves.
Project Duration
The project had begun in September 2016 and was completed in June 2017. It served as the final project for the Textile Engineering degree, part of the University graduation. The idea of placing the collection in the Moldovan rustic background for the campaign came in early 2020, whilst the shooting took place in September 2020.
Operation Flow
The collection dynamics are conveyed by the layering of fabrics which differ in density, opacity and colour. The dynamics are obtained by the stylization of the sleeves, which creates a rhythmic movement of flounces; different velvet textures; expressive jacquards and a playful dance of transparencies.
Image Credits
Image #1, #2, #3, #4, #5
Photographer: Sergiu Rotaru, 2020
Styling: Corina Croitor
Model: Sabrina Danilova
Model: Valeria Untu
Model: Maria-Magdalena Cucu
Video credits: Corina Croitor
Video Montage: Selina Paladi

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