Tong Tong 嘅作品 Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服裝

由設計師 Tong Tong 創作嘅 Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服裝係備受推崇嘅 2024 A' Design Award 銅獎得獎作品，獲獎類別為時裝、服飾及成衣設計。

銅時裝· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服裝

由 Tong Tong

時裝類別嘅 A' Design Award 銅獎得獎者

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經驗證嘅獲獎者

驗證設計 #159036 嘅獲獎狀態

喺 A' Design Award 查看新聞稿獎項徽章

色彩

設計

關於 Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服裝

呢個設計向長衫致敬，長衫係一款備受尊崇嘅中國傳統男裝。設計重新演繹咗長衫優雅嘅輪廓，將傳統與創新完美融合。直身剪裁配合暗藏式口袋，喺保持莊重得體嘅同時提升咗實用性。採用高撚度斜紋羊毛布料製成，帶嚟結構支撐力，並呈現挺括不易皺嘅效果。透過細緻嘅剪裁工藝，設計師克服咗重新設計領口嘅挑戰，確保線條流暢自然之餘，亦保持咗結構上嘅穩固性。

榮譽認可

關於A' Design Award 銅獎

Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服裝是 A' Design Award 銅獎得主，這是授予以創造力、獨創性和敏銳見長的傑出設計的極具聲望的認可。銅獎得主是技藝嫻熟、創意驚人的作品，印證了其設計師豐富的經驗、想像力與機智。預計Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服裝將成為一件備受推崇、令人欽佩且被珍愛的物品，兼具顯著的專業性與創新性。這件贏得 A' Design Award 銅獎的設計融入藝術、科學、設計和技術領域的最佳實踐，並因注重細節而出類拔萃。Reinterpretation Of Changshan 服裝出色地滿足需求，觸動渴望，迷住情感，並吸引好奇心。

設計背後

新聞資料包

由設計師提供嘅製作人員名單、團隊成員同技術詳情。

獨特屬性: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
尺寸同包裝: Full-body Length
標籤: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
生產技術: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
設計挑戰: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
研究: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
靈感: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
項目時長: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
操作流程: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
團隊成員: Tong Tong
圖片來源: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023