Ataraxia 珠寶收藏 by Yilan Liu is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2020 A' Design Award 金獎 in 珠寶設計 Competition Category.

金珠寶· 2020

Ataraxia 珠寶收藏

by Yilan Liu

Client: Yilan Jewelry

A' Design Award 金獎 Winner in 珠寶 Category

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Verified Award Winner
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Colors

The Design

About Ataraxia 珠寶收藏

該項目將時尚與先進技術相結合，旨在創造可將舊哥特式元素轉變為新風格的珠寶作品，並探討傳統元素在當代環境中的潛力。由於對哥特式氛圍如何影響聽眾的興趣，該項目試圖通過有趣的互動來激發獨特的個人體驗，探索設計與佩戴者之間的關係。合成寶石作為一種較低的生態烙印材料，被切成不尋常的平坦表面，以將其顏色投射到皮膚上以增強相互作用。

The Recognition

About the A' Design Award 金獎

Ataraxia 珠寶收藏是 A' Design Award 金獎得主，這是授予一流、絕妙而傑出設計的極為崇高的認可。金獎得主是極具創新、極富遠見且璀璨奪目的創作，反映出其設計師的天才、智慧與才幹。預計Ataraxia 珠寶收藏將成為一項備受讚譽、引領潮流、氣勢恢宏的發明，帶來前所未有的價值。這件贏得 A' Design Award 金獎的設計是一個壯觀而受人敬重的項目，極大地造福並拓展藝術、科學、設計和技術的界限。Ataraxia 珠寶收藏激起強烈的渴望，喚起激情，鼓勵創造力，令我們著迷。

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: Inspired by Gothic architecture, the collection encapsulates the sublime internal atmosphere, exploiting Gothic structural details to stimulate the particular feelings and explore emotional experience. Synthetic gemstones, as a lower eco-imprint material, were cut into unusually flat surfaces to cast their colors onto the skin to enhance the vibe. Immersive exploration of the precious culture is encouraged by the collection. The jewelry acts as a media to provoke unique individual experience. The design challenged the production to realize all the details to achieve the final result.
Dimensions & Packaging: Ring No.1: 41mm x 18mm x 30mm;
Ring No.2: 28mm x 28mm x 36mm;
Bangle: 75mm x 75mm x 22mm;
Earring: 21mm x 59mm x 8mm
Tags: jewelry, ring, bangle, earring, Gothic architecture, culture, emotional experience, eco-friendly, interaction, synthetic gemstones
Production Technology: The production lasted about one month including wax curving, casting, stone cutting, model modification, stone setting, metal finishing and gold plating. Some design details were adjusted during this process. The materials are synthetic gemstones including cubic zirconia, synthetic spinel and synthetic ruby which were cut into usually flat surfaces. For the metal part, the material is goldplated silver.
Design Challenge: The challenge was to realize all the design details to achieve the best result. There were many details in the design which made it difficult to well polish all the corners without damaging. After several experiments, I finally chose sand blasting as the main metal finishing which combined with full polish of the top faces of the settings, ensuring all the details as well as giving the collection a feel of flexibility. Also, the stone cutting process went through a lot of experiments to decide the thickness to gain the best effect.
Research: The research concentrated on Gothic culture and the purchasing behavior of customers towards contemporary jewelry from books, journals, online articles and relevant market data. The research showed the potential of making the old into the new in the perspectives of market and technology. Besides, the case studies were given on market, trend and manufacture with online research and interviews, as first-hand investigations underscoring the value of the project. All the research promoted the development of the project and completed the project in the academic way.
Inspiration: The collection was inspired by ancient Gothic architecture. This traditional style is fading with time, but it can be reborn in a new way with jewelry. Combining with fashion and advanced technology, the project aims to create jewelry pieces which can make the old into a new style, discussing the potential of the traditional in the contemporary context. With the interest in the way how the Gothic vibe influences audience and based on the vast research on Gothic culture, the project also tries to provoke unique individual experience through playful interaction, exploring the relationship between design and wearers.
Project Duration: The project started in October 2017 in London and finished in May 2019 in London, and was exhibited in Central Saint Martins Degree Show in June 2019 and was awarded as Distinction. The production was finished in China.
Operation Flow: The designs were inspired from Gothic architecture. Wearers will be easily attracted by its amazing appearance with elegant details. The pieces combine the old with the new, explaining the traditional culture with contemporary fashion language. When wearing the jewelry, the beautiful lines flow with the body, the bright colors cast onto the skin, creating a poetic experience for individuals. It is jewelry, but more than jewelry. It is a combination of culture, aesthetic, fashion and emotion.
Image Credits: #1, 2, 3, 4, 5: Photographer Xiaowu Yu, 2019