Gold Jewelry Design · 2016
Eves Weapon Collier
- A' Design Award 2016 Gold Winner in Jewelry Design
- Awarded April 15, 2016
- CLIENT: Brittas Schmiede
- Estimated Number of Design Views: 58,415
- Verification code 11D4AA1693 · Verify this award
About Eves Weapon Collier
Eve's weapon is made of 750 carat rose and white gold. It contains 110 diamonds (20.2ct) and consists of 62 segments. All of them have two completely different appearances: In side view the segments are apple shaped, in top view V-shaped lines can be seen. Each segment is split sideways to create the spring loading effect holding the diamonds – the diamonds are held by tension only. This advantageously emphasizes the luminosity, brilliance and maximizes the visible radiance of the diamond. It allows for a extremely light and clear design, despite the size of the necklace.
Britta Schwalm's Eves Weapon Collier represents a distinguished achievement within contemporary jewelry design, demonstrating the sophisticated integration of precious metalwork traditions with modernist compositional principles that privilege rhythm, repetition, and modular articulation. The work engages with longstanding goldsmithing conventions while introducing an architectural vocabulary that transforms the traditional collier format into something approaching wearable sculpture. Each segment of the neckpiece functions simultaneously as structural unit and decorative element, with the curved rose gold disc forms creating a visual cadence that evokes organic associations ranging from vertebral anatomy to the overlapping scales of serpentine creatures celebrated across numerous cultural traditions. The technical accomplishment evident in the precise articulation points suggests mastery of both traditional jewelry fabrication techniques and contemporary engineering solutions that permit fluid movement while maintaining formal integrity. Diamond placement follows a deliberate rhythm that establishes focal points along the central axis, with the brilliant-cut stones generating light effects that animate the composition as the wearer moves through space. The chromatic warmth of rose gold establishes an intimate relationship with skin tones, suggesting the designer's careful consideration of the jewelry-body dialogue that distinguishes exceptional wearable design from mere decorative object-making. One might observe how the work balances substantial material presence with visual lightness achieved through the strategic incorporation of negative space between modular elements. The Eves Weapon Collier invites contemplation regarding how contemporary luxury design might synthesize historical craft traditions with architectural thinking to create objects that function as both personal adornment and sculptural statement.
Press Kit
- Unique Properties
- Eve's weapon is a necklace made of 750 carat rose and white gold. It contains 110 diamonds (20.2ct), which are set by tension only.
Eve's weapon was created for HRD Awards nomination and was first presented at EXPO in Milan, Italy.
The apple is a highly potent and internationally recognized symbol, representing a range of aspects: Love, Fertility, Nurture, Beauty as well as Seduction, Temptation, Original Sin, Lust and Power. - Dimensions & Packaging
- Eves Weapon is 40cm long and has 13mm in diameter.
- Tags
- eves weapon, apple, diamond, jewellery, collier, HRD
- Production Technology
- 110 Diamonds set by tension only - this requires absolute precision. All apple-segments a laser cut. Than they were crafted by hand to make sure, that the tension is given to carry eg. a 0.5ct diamond.
- Design Challenge
- Eves Weapon was a concept that had to fit to HRD Awards Theme "A la carte". This is an international Award in which, if you were a "Nominee", you get a Sponsor for the Diamonds. 1500 designers took part - 29 received sponsorship.
- Project Duration
- Eves Weapon was conceptually designed in Summer 2014, and finally built in March 2015. The diamonds are sponsored by Anders Diamonds. The collier took part in a professional photo shooting by D. B. Woordrow with a professional model in Antwerp. It was shown at EXPO in Milan from April till October 2015. The collier was presented in an exclusive gala by HRD Award in Antwerpen on 28.10.2015. Now it is part of the roadshow trawling the world till end of 2016 or even longer.
- Operation Flow
- The collier has two completely different appearances depending on the viewpoint. Seen in side view the ring has the shape of an apple. Seen in top view the shape is abstract and two v-shaped lines can be seen. The apple shaped ring is split sideways to create the spring loading effect holding the diamond. My design is a spin-off from the classic tension ring, as the diamond is held by tension only within the v-shaped ring.
- Research
- I decided to set the diamond by tension rather than other mounting methods, as this advantageously emphasizes the luminosity, brilliance and maximizes the visible radiance of the diamond. It also allows for a extremely light and clear design. The balancing act between the abstract form (seen from above) and the concrete shape (seen from the side) is visually interesting, as well as reflecting the complexity of the apple as a symbol.
- Inspiration
- The first food ever served was the apple offered by Eve.
As a symbol the apple is highly potent and represents several aspects: Love, Fertility, Nurture, Beauty as well as Seduction, Temptation, Sin, Lust, Power. All this combined summarize the charms of women - or the weapons of Eve.
To highlight the gamut of this symbol, I would like to mention a few examples:
- Forbidden fruit and the fall of mankind;
- Venus - goddess of love, beauty and fertility;
- Aphrodite and the Apple - Image Credits
- Olaf Hermann
- Patents
- Britta Schwalm
Colors of Eves Weapon Collier
Design Interview about Eves Weapon Collier
I love designs that need a second look. Is 'Eves Weapon' a modern necklace or a homage to an apple, to women?
The apple is the first food ever served and is a highly potential symbol for all emotions and situations a woman can face in her life. An apple stands for health, fertility, seduction, lust and sin. Think at Aphrodite, Venus or EVE.
The apple is the first food ever served and is a highly potential symbol for all emotions and situations a woman can face in her life. An apple stands for health, fertility, seduction, lust and sin. Think at Aphrodite, Venus or EVE.
I designed 'Eves Weapon' to take part at HRD Award and got nominated. This resulted in being sponsored 20,2ct Diamonds to build the necklace. That was what I wanted to achieve - to work with 20,2 ct Diamonds. To work with that amount of Diamonds is gorgeous, fantastic, magnificent.
It is on roadshows. From Milan to Antwerp to Hongkong - all over the world, what plans would I need more?
To design it took about approximately 3weeks. To build it I was limited by the HRD-rules - I had about 10 days and nights.
I designed 'Eves Weapon' to fit the motto 'A la carte' that was given by HRD.
If there is someone who wants to sell or buy 'Eves Weapon', please let me know :-)
I read the motto given by HRD 'a la carte' and was surprised how angry I got. I though about a pizza as an earring or a prezel as a pendant - silly. Then I decided to ignore the theme because I thought it was not for me. I couldn't. At a time I thought 'appelring' - this is a food made by dehydrating slices of apple resulting in a ring in the design of an apple. This was the start...
The inventor of the original 'Spannring' a ring that holds its diamonds by tension only. This is the perfect way to set a diamond and get the most of the brilliance and luminosity.
A customer with sense of style and an interest in unique design.
The diamonds are set by tension only.
What is the best weapon a woman has? The way she can tempt and manipulate man. For example with the food she cooks.
Pencil, copper, a saw, a camera and photoshop.
The setting of the diamonds. It's very difficult to set a diamond by tension only in such small apple-segments. It's possible if the segments are hard soldered properly and only with high quality gold of 750/000.
I worked with a firm specialised on laser cut in gold.
Without laser cut I wouldn't be able to produce the apple-segments in the consistency and quality I needed.
I researched in the Geek mythology and meet Aphrodite, Nike, Venus. I researched the symbol 'apple' and found the fall of mankind and the proverb 'An apple a day keeps the doctor away'. And I found Wilhelm Tell and his shooting at the apple at the head of his son. I recognised that the apple is a highly potent symbol- and the first food ever served, thinking back to the fall of mankind.
The challenges were
Working with the very high value of the diamonds
Working against the given time
Working with that high precision in an amount of 62 segments.
Working with the very high value of the diamonds
Working against the given time
Working with that high precision in an amount of 62 segments.
I got an A'Design Award in 2015 and had a lot of success with 'Glueckskind', so it was an easy decision to take part with 'Eves Weapon'.
I learned that my family stands close to me. Without their support I wouldn't have been able to finish the work in the given time.
Grand Interview about Eves Weapon Collier
The Eves Weapon Collier presented significant engineering challenges, particularly in achieving the precise tension needed to secure 110 diamonds without traditional prongs. We utilized advanced CAD software to model each segment and ensure exact tolerances. The tension setting required meticulous calculation and testing to achieve the perfect balance between security and aesthetic brilliance. This process involved numerous prototypes and adjustments to guarantee both durability and visual appeal.
The dual aesthetic of the Eves Weapon Collier was inspired by the symbolic story of Eve and the apple, representing temptation and knowledge. The side view symbolizes the allure and curiosity that the apple represents, while the V-shape from above signifies the path of choice and consequence. This duality enhances the narrative by visually and symbolically capturing the essence of the story and the decisions we face in life.
Balancing the multiple layers of meaning in the apple motif was achieved by integrating modern design elements with traditional symbolism. The sleek, contemporary lines of the collier, combined with the intricate tension setting of the diamonds, create a piece that is both visually striking and deeply meaningful. The design subtly incorporates the themes of love, temptation, and power, allowing the wearer to connect with the piece on a personal level while maintaining a modern aesthetic.
Crafting each of the 62 segments involved a meticulous process of design, testing, and assembly. Each segment was individually crafted and tested to ensure that it met the precise requirements for tension setting. The segments were then carefully assembled to create a seamless and flexible structure that adapts to the wearer's movements. The visual effect was achieved by ensuring that each diamond is positioned to catch the light perfectly, enhancing the collier's brilliance and transforming it with every movement.
Ensuring the stability and comfort of the Eves Weapon Collier involved a combination of advanced engineering and ergonomic design. The tension settings were meticulously tested to ensure they could withstand daily wear without compromising on stability. The collier was also designed with a focus on flexibility and weight distribution, ensuring that it sits comfortably on the neck and adapts to the wearer's movements without causing discomfort.
My expertise in traditional goldsmithing and modern design techniques played a crucial role in developing the Eves Weapon Collier. Combining rose and white gold with diamonds required a deep understanding of material properties and how they interact. Traditional craftsmanship techniques ensured the integrity and quality of the piece, while modern design tools allowed for precise planning and execution. This blend of old and new methods resulted in a piece that is both innovative and rooted in timeless craftsmanship.
The inspiration for the tension-only setting technique came from a desire to highlight the natural brilliance of the diamonds without the distraction of traditional prongs. This technique advances traditional jewelry design principles by pushing the boundaries of what is possible in terms of both aesthetics and engineering. By allowing the diamonds to appear as if they are floating, we create a sense of lightness and modernity that enhances their natural beauty and brilliance.
The journey of Eves Weapon Collier was full of unexpected discoveries. I just like apples. I never thought it possible that apples would inspire me to create a design that would win me a gold A'Design Award and exhibit this piece of jewelry of mine at the Expo in Milan.
Eves Weapon Collier both reflects and challenges contemporary trends in luxury jewelry design. It embodies the current emphasis on personalization and storytelling by incorporating deep symbolic meaning. At the same time, it challenges traditional design norms through its innovative tension setting and dual aesthetic. This combination of classical symbolism and modern execution creates a piece that is both timeless and forward-thinking, appealing to a sophisticated and discerning audience.
The most lasting impact of the Eves Weapon Collier on future jewelry design will likely be its innovative use of tension setting and its ability to blend deep symbolism with modern aesthetics. This approach encourages designers to think outside the box and explore new techniques that enhance both the visual and emotional appeal of their pieces. By pushing the boundaries of what is technically possible, the collier sets a new standard for combining artistry with engineering in jewelry design.