ʻO Origins ʻo Ka Brooch A Me Ka Lei na Paloma Sanchez he mea lanakila hanohano loa o ka 2023 A' Design Award Kala ma ka Māhele Hoʻokūkū Hoʻolālā Lei a me Kahiko.
KalaLei Kahiko· 2023
Origins ʻo Ka Brooch A Me Ka Lei
Mea Kūʻai: Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry
Mea Lanakila A' Design Award Kala ma ka Māhele Lei Kahiko
Mea Lanakila i Hōʻoia ʻIa
Hōʻoia i ke Kūlana Makana no #147765Ka Hoʻolālā
E Pili Ana iā Origins ʻo Ka Brooch A Me Ka Lei
Hana ʻia mai ke gula 18kt me ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻenehana hoʻoheheʻe ʻana i ka wax, ke kaena nei ka lei i kahi poʻo Anishinaabe Harpoon 1000 AD i loaʻa ma ka ʻāina ʻo Great Lakes, i hoʻopiha piha ʻia e nā momi a me nā daimana Japanese Akoya. Ua hoʻohana mua ʻia ma ke ʻano he kiko harpoon, ʻo kēia ʻāpana keleawe kupaianaha he mea laha loa i loaʻa ma nā hale moʻomeheu. Me ka mahalo nui i ka mōʻaukala, hāʻawi kēia mea nani i ke ola hou i nā waiwai kahiko. Ma o ke akamai o ka hana ʻana i nā mea hoʻonani, hōʻike ka hoʻolālā i ka makemake a me ka manaʻoʻiʻo i ka hāʻawi ʻana i kumu hou i nā mea waiwai.
Ka Hoʻomaikai
E Pili Ana i ka A' Design Award Kala
Ua lanakila ka hoʻolālā Origins ʻo Ka Brooch A Me Ka Lei i ka A' Design Award Kala, he ʻike hoʻohanohano nui loa i hāʻawi ʻia i nā hoʻolālā kiʻekiʻe loa, nani a kupaianaha. He mau hana ʻālohilohi loa a hana noʻeau nui nā lanakila Kala e hōʻike ana i ka loea, ka makakoho a me ka ʻoi aku o ka noʻonoʻo o kā lākou poʻe hoʻolālā. Manaʻo ʻia ʻo ka hoʻolālā Origins ʻo Ka Brooch A Me Ka Lei he hana kupaianaha, kūlana ʻoi aku, ʻoihana kiʻekiʻe a hou loa. ʻO kēia hoʻolālā i lanakila i ka A' Design Award Kala he mea hoʻokumu kūpono loa, mahalo ʻia e hāʻawi i ka pōmaikaʻi a hoʻoneʻe i nā palena o ka hana noʻeau, ka ʻepekema, ka hoʻolālā a me ka ʻenehana. He mea i ʻeleu ʻia e nā mea he nui ka hoʻolālā Origins ʻo Ka Brooch A Me Ka Lei e hoʻāla i ka makemake, lawe mai i nā manaʻo maikaʻi a hoʻāla i ka kamahaʻo a me ka mahalo.
Ma Hope o ka Hoʻolālā
ʻEke Nūhou
Nā hōʻoia, nā lālā hui a me nā kikoʻī ʻenehana i hāʻawi ʻia e ka mea hoʻolālā.
- Nā ʻAno Kūʻokoʻa
- This piece pays tribute to the Anishinaabe, the first inhabitants of the Great Lakes area, and their rich history. The centerpiece of the design is a 3,000-year-old copper spear point fishing tool, which has been transformed into a piece of art jewelry.
Through the lens of jewelry-making, this design represents our will and belief in giving new life and purpose to ancient treasures. The combination of textures - the roughness of the old copper, the warm smoothness of the pearls, and the cold fire of the diamonds - creates a truly unique and captivating piece.
This committed art jewelry also celebrates the importance of our shared history and the importance of repurposing antique treasures to create something new and inspiring. It is a tribute to the resilience of humankind, the power of nature, and the artistry of those who came before us. - Nā Ana a me ka Hoʻopili
- Gold: 6,85g
Diamonds: 40 x 0.008cts round brilliant cut VVS diamonds Total weight of diamonds: 0.32cts
Pearls: 2 Akoya pearls, 6mm, and 5.5mm
Brooch: 10cm x 1,3cm to 2mm - Nā Lepili
- jewelry, gold, brooch, necklace, First Nations, Anishinaabe, Necklace, Brooch, Unique, One of a Kind, Design, Repurpose, Museum piece, Antique, Art, Jewelry, Gold,
- ʻEnehana Hana
- The brooch is hand-crafted in 18kt gold using a casting technique. The Anishinaabe Harpoon head (1000 B.C.) was found in the Great Lakes area and is married with Japanese Akoya pearls and Diamonds. It is important to note that this copper piece was initially used as a harpoon point (harpoons were made of wood and, therefore, would break easily. The copper point was meant to harden the end of the harpoon. The Anishinaabe did not know the iron, only copper, as there was a considerable copper source in the Great Lakes area.) such specimens tend to be found in museums.
As the cooper spear point has a cylindrical body, we designed the back of the brooch with two needles in order to guarantee complete stability, making sure that the face of the brooch always looks forward when worn, avoiding it rolling towards one side or the other. We managed to keep these two needles completely invisible when worn. - Pilikia Hoʻolālā
- The production of this piece presented two main challenges. Firstly, we aimed to maximize its utility while still conveying the Anishinaabe worldview in a contemporary context. This required a creative approach rather than just technical expertise. The brooch had to be comfortable to wear, visually appealing, and function as both a necklace and brooch, all while portraying the connection with nature and refinement of the First Nations.
During the early stages of the design, our challenge was primarily centered around how to ensure that the harpoon sat straight on the collar of a blouse or the lapel of a jacket, while keeping the functional structure invisible and comfortable to wear as a necklace. To achieve this, we developed a two-needle system that runs along 50% of the harpoon, with an invisible clasp at the top to allow a chain to pass through and use the harpoon point as a necklace. With the clasp centered and the two needles acting as counterweights and stoppers, the harpoon remains in a forward-facing position, whether worn as a necklace or a brooch.
The second challenge arose during the manufacturing process, as the harpoon is a delicate museum piece that cannot be subjected to high pressures or temperatures, or its texture and color could change. Furthermore, to respect its bond with nature, we had to ensure zero waste during production. To achieve this, we first hand-sculpted a wax mold that was then fitted precisely to the harpoon. We used this mold to cast the 18kts gold front enhancements in which the future diamonds would be set, as well as the brooch needles and the back adorns. Finally, the dorsal 18k gold structure was delicately adjusted to the harpoon to create the final product.
To showcase the piece´s deep connection to nature and portray the Anishinaabe’s skilled craftsmanship, we chose to incorporate natural gems with contrasting textures. The smooth, white spheres of the pearls beautifully contrast with the oxidized roughness of the copper, while the diamonds add a luminous quality to the piece that allows it to radiate its own light.
We believe these contrasting textures reflect the Anishinaabe worldview, which values the complementary nature of all things in the natural world. The smoothness of the pearls represents the calmness and tranquility found in nature, while the roughness of the copper represents the strength and resilience required to thrive in the natural world. The diamonds, with their brilliant radiance, represent the beauty and wonder of nature.
Through our design, we sought to pay homage to the Anishinaabe's sophisticated craftsmanship and their deep reverence for nature. The result is a piece that exudes luxurious allure while remaining faithful to the Anishinaabe worldview. - Hoʻoulu Manaʻo
- This piece is inspired by human history and diversity, as well as the importance of giving a new life to antique tools.
- Ka Lōʻihi o ka Papahana
- The project started in Michigan, USA, in January 2020 and was finished in our Beijing Atelier by the end of October 2020. It was exhibited at the Beijing Art and Design Fair in May 2021.
- Kaʻina Hana
- The piece is a brooch that can be used as a necklace with the addition of a chain.
- Nā Lālā Hui
- Paloma Sanchez
- Nā Kuleana Kiʻi
- Image #1: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.
Image #2: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model necklace, 2021.
Image #3: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins model brooch, 2021.
Video Credits: Creator Paloma Sanchez The Art of Jewelry, Origins, 2021.
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