Poem Sapce Dhar Yar oo Nuqul ah oo Wax Yar Lumiya by Bonan Li

Poem Sapce Dhar Yar oo Nuqul ah oo Wax Yar Lumiya by Bonan Li is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2025 Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award in Naqshadeynta Fashaniga, Dharka iyo Lebiska Competition Category.

NaxaasFashani· 2025

Poem Sapce Dhar Yar oo Nuqul ah oo Wax Yar Lumiya

by Bonan Li

Client: Bonan Li Studio

Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award Winner in Fashani Category

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The Design

About Poem Sapce Dhar Yar oo Nuqul ah oo Wax Yar Lumiya

Poem Sapce waa dhar la sameeyay iyaddoo la adeegsanayo hab wax yar ka lumiya, isagoo isku daraya qaab cusub oo laalaabista (pleating) leh iyo goynta aan wax lumin (zero waste cutting). Dharku wuxuu ka sameysan yahay maro gacanta lagu tolay oo ay soo saareen farsamoyaqaanno deegaan ah oo ku sugan dhawr gobol, taasoo ilaalisa farsamooyinka dhaqameed ee tolista maraha. Sii dhiman ka dhaca maraha ee gobolku wuxuu qaabeeyaa dharka, isagoo abuuraya laalaab dabiici ah oo saddex-cabbir leh halkii uu jarayn lahaa maro. Meel kasta oo laalaab ah waxaa gacanta lagu go’aamiyaa lana taxaa (map) kadhbood (cardboard) si loogu soo saaro tirooyin yaryar oo wax soo saar ah. Laalaabyada farshaxanka ah waxay la dhaqaaqaan jidhka, iyagoo bixiya raaxo iyo qaab labadaba.

The Recognition

About the Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award

Poem Sapce Dhar Yar oo Nuqul ah oo Wax Yar Lumiya waa guuleystaha Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award, aqoonsi sharaf sare leh oo la siiyo naqshado aan caadi ahayn oo lagu garto hal-abuur, hal-abuur cusub iyo caqli. Guuleystayaasha Naxaasta waa shaqooyin xirfad buuxda leh iyo hal-abuur yaab leh oo xaqiijiya khibrad weyn, male-awaal iyo kartida naqshadeeyayaashooda. Poem Sapce Dhar Yar oo Nuqul ah oo Wax Yar Lumiya waa walax la filayo inay noqoto mid aad loo tixgeliyo, la ixtiraamo oo la jecel yahay, xirfad cad leh oo hal-abuur cusub leh. Naqshadahan ku guuleystay Abaalmarinta Naxaasta ah ee A' Design Award wuxuu ku darsadaa hab-dhaqanno ugu wanaagsan farshaxanka, sayniska, naqshadaynta iyo tignoolajiyada wuxuuna ku fiican yahay dhawrista tafaasiisha. Poem Sapce Dhar Yar oo Nuqul ah oo Wax Yar Lumiya si fiican ayay u buuxisaa baahiyaha, taabataa rabitaannada, soo jiidataa dareenka kicinayaanna xiisaha aqoonta.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress redefines sustainable fashion by integrating innovative pleating techniques with zero-waste cutting. Crafted from locally handwoven fabrics sourced globally, this design preserves traditional craftsmanship while reducing energy consumption. By harnessing localized fabric shrinkage, it forms organic, three-dimensional silhouettes with minimal material waste.
Dimensions & Packaging: Length: 1500 mm x Width: 800 mm x Thickness: 50 mm
Tags: sustainable fashion, zero-waste design, innovative pleating, fabric shrinkage technique, handwoven textiles, three-dimensional garment, traditional craftsmanship, small-batch production, sculptural fashion, eco-conscious design
Production Technology: The design employs zero-waste cutting and an innovative pleating technique that utilizes localized fabric shrinkage to create organic, three-dimensional forms. Each pleat position is meticulously hand-fixed and mapped onto cardboard for small-batch production, ensuring precision and minimizing waste in the manufacturing process.
Design Challenge: The most challenging aspect of this project was balancing sustainability with structural innovation. Achieving precise pleat placement through fabric shrinkage required extensive testing, as different textiles reacted unpredictably. Additionally, sourcing ethically handwoven fabrics while maintaining production feasibility posed logistical challenges. Overcoming these obstacles involved iterative experimentation, collaboration with artisans, and refining techniques to ensure both aesthetic integrity and minimal waste.
Research: This research explores sustainable garment construction through fabric behavior analysis and zero-waste design. The objective was to develop an innovative pleating method that minimizes waste while enhancing three-dimensionality. Using an experimental approach, I tested localized fabric shrinkage and pleat fixation techniques, documenting results through draping, hand-marking, and pattern adjustments. Material tests were conducted to study fabric reactions, with findings informing a scalable, small-batch production model. The research promotes sustainability by reducing textile waste and preserving traditional weaving techniques.
Inspiration: The intersection of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary sustainability inspired the Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress. I sought to challenge conventional garment construction by exploring fabric behavior through pleating and shrinkage techniques. Drawing from research on localized textile manipulation, I developed a method to create dynamic, sculptural forms while minimizing waste. This project reflects my commitment to preserving heritage weaving techniques.
Project Duration: This project was exhibited in Cave of the Day, Cave of the Night in Brooklyn, New York. It began in New York in 2013 and was completed in mid-2014 in New York.
Operation Flow: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress transforms through a unique pleating method that shapes the fabric organically using controlled shrinkage. Instead of traditional cutting, the fabric naturally adjusts, creating sculptural folds that move with the body. Each pleat is carefully placed to enhance form and flexibility, offering comfort and structure. This approach reduces fabric waste while achieving a dynamic, flowing silhouette that feels effortless yet meticulously crafted.
Image Credits: Photographer Hao Zeng