Reinterpretation Of Changshan Uwe by Tong Tong

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Uwe by Tong Tong is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2024 Ihe Nrite A' Design Award nke Bronz in Nhazi Ejiji, Uwe na Akwa Uwe Competition Category.

BronzEjiji· 2024

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Uwe

by Tong Tong

Ihe Nrite A' Design Award nke Bronz Winner in Ejiji Category

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Verified Award Winner

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Colors

The Design

About Reinterpretation Of Changshan Uwe

Ihe mmebe a na-asọpụrụ ịma mma na-adịgide adịgide nke Changshan, uwe ọdịnala ndị nwoke China a na-akwanyere ùgwù. N'ịkpọlite ụdịdị ya mara mma, ntụgharị a na-ejikọta ihe nketa na ihe ọhụrụ n'ụzọ dị mfe. Akụkụ kwụ ọtọ na akpa etinyere n'ụzọ nzuzo na-eme ka ọ rụọ ọrụ nke ọma ma na-edobe ịdị mma. Ejiri ajị anụ wool twill nke a tụgharịrị nke ọma mepụta ya, ọ na-enye nkwado nhazi na ọdịdị na-enweghị ịcha ncha. Site n'usoro ịkpa uwe nke ọma, e meriri ihe ịma aka nke ịmegharị olu uwe ahụ ma hụ na ọ nwere ma mpempe akụkụ dị nro na ike nhazi.

The Recognition

About the Ihe Nrite A' Design Award nke Bronz

Reinterpretation Of Changshan Uwe meriri A' Design Award nke Bronz, nnabata dị oke ugwu e nyere design ndị pụtara ìhè nke a ma ama maka nzụlite ihe, ọgụgụ isi na nghọta. Ndị meriri na Bronz bụ ihe e mere nke ndị nwere nka nke ukwuu ma dị mma n'imepụta nke na-egosi ahụmahụ buru ibu, echiche na ọgụgụ isi nke ndị designer ha. A na-atụ anya na Reinterpretation Of Changshan Uwe ga-abụ ihe a na-asọpụrụ nke ukwuu, a na-eto na a hụrụ n'anya, nke dị oke ọrụ ma dị ọhụrụ. Design a meriri A' Design Award nke Bronz na-agụnye ụzọ kacha mma n'ime nka, sayensị, design na teknụzụ, ma dị mma nke ukwuu maka nlebara anya ya n'obere ihe. Reinterpretation Of Changshan Uwe na-emezu mkpa nke ọma, na-emetụ ọchịchọ aka, na-adọrọ mmetụta obi ma na-adọta ọchịchọ ịmara.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: While striving to preserve its overall minimal and elongated silhouette, I endeavor to innovate this historical wardrobe classic through various tailoring methods, achieving a design that harmonizes tradition with modernity. Vertical seams were introduced to control volume, seamlessly blending the original stand collar into one piece with the body panels and discreetly incorporating in-seam pockets. Instead of the traditional side slash, inverted pleats were added to the side seams to enhance mobility while maintaining a modest appearance. Additionally, compared to the original, the overlapping front opening was shortened more towards the center with a slightly slanted curve for easier access.
Dimensions & Packaging: Full-body Length
Tags: Fashion, Clothing Design, Cultural Heritage, Chinese Traditional Culture, Tailoring
Production Technology: A high-twist wool twill for this project was chosen due to its springy nature. It creates an ideal structural support for the garment, as well as a wrinkle-free character which contributes to the smooth and minimal image of traditional Changshan.
Design Challenge: The primary challenge in realizing this design lay in the neck area. With the traditional neckline replaced by a series of vertical seams from the body panels, achieving the correct collar shape proved difficult initially. To address this, multiple trial iterations were conducted to refine the patterns for utmost accuracy. Following fabric cutting, the neck area underwent molding under steam and iron to create the smooth curve of the collar. Additionally, hymo was pad-stitched to provide sufficient structural support for the garment.
Research: Extensive historical and visual research was conducted to facilitate the creation of this design. To gain a deeper understanding of the historical context and the original design of the Changshan, historical photographs and documentaries were reviewed via digital databases, such as the BIFT Museum.
Inspiration: This design draws inspiration from the iconic Changshan, a traditional Chinese menswear garment.With its lean yet elegant silhouette, the Changshan was a wardrobe staple for men during the Republic of China era(1912-1949). Its floor-sweeping body, dolman sleeves, Mandarin collar, and overlapping front opening made it a symbol of social status and literacy.
Project Duration: This Garment was designed in December 2021 and finished in the beginning of January 2022 in Chicago.
Operation Flow: The garment is designed to be worn as a coat.
Team Members: Tong Tong
Image Credits: Image #1-5 Photographer：Yuxian He, 2023
Image #1-5 Model: Junxian Ouyang, 2023