Poem Sapce Aṣọ Ìdinku Ìdahoro Kékeré by Bonan Li

Poem Sapce Aṣọ Ìdinku Ìdahoro Kékeré by Bonan Li is a highly esteemed winner of the very prestigious 2025 Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award in Àpẹẹrẹ Àṣà Ìmúra, Aṣọ àti Ẹ̀wù Competition Category.

IdẹÀṣà Ìmúra· 2025

Poem Sapce Aṣọ Ìdinku Ìdahoro Kékeré

by Bonan Li

Client: Bonan Li Studio

Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award Winner in Àṣà Ìmúra Category

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Colors

The Design

About Poem Sapce Aṣọ Ìdinku Ìdahoro Kékeré

Ọ̀rọ̀ Ìwé: Poem Space jẹ́ aṣọ ìdinku ìdahoro kékeré tí ó so ọ̀nà ìṣẹ̀dá pípa àkànṣe pọ̀ mọ́ gígé aláìní ìdahoro rárá. A ṣe aṣọ náà láti inú aṣọ híhun ọwọ́ tí àwọn oníṣẹ́-ọnà agbègbè ṣe ní onírúurú ẹ̀kùn-ìlú, tí ó sì ń pa àwọn ọgbọ́n híhun ìbílẹ̀ mọ́. Ìsúnkì aṣọ ní àyè kọ̀ọ̀kan ni ó ń ṣe àpẹẹrẹ aṣọ náà, tí ó ń dá àwọn ìpalẹ̀ onígun mẹ́ta tí ó dà bí ti ẹ̀dá sílẹ̀ dípò kí a gé àwọn ohun èlò náà kúrò. A ó fi ọwọ́ dá ipò ìpààrọ̀ kọ̀ọ̀kan mọ́lẹ̀, a ó sì kọ ọ́ sórí káàdíbọ́ọ̀dù fún iṣelọ́po iye díẹ̀. Àwọn ìpalẹ̀ arìnrìn wọ̀nyí ń bá ara ẹni rìn, wọ́n sì ń fúnni ní ìtura àti ìṣètò pọ̀.

The Recognition

About the Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award

Poem Sapce Aṣọ Ìdinku Ìdahoro Kékeré jẹ́ olùborí Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award, ìdánimọ̀ olókìkí gan-an tí a fún àwọn àwòṣe tó tayọ tí wọ́n yàtọ̀ nípasẹ̀ ìṣẹ̀dá, àrékérekè àti ọgbọ́n inú. Àwọn olùborí Idẹ jẹ́ àwọn ohun èlò tó ní ìjáfáfá gan-an tí wọ́n sì ní ìṣẹ̀dá tó yani lẹ́nu tí wọ́n ń ṣe ẹ̀rí ìrírí gbígbòòrò, ìrònú àti ọgbọ́n àwọn olùṣàwòṣe wọn. A retí pé Poem Sapce Aṣọ Ìdinku Ìdahoro Kékeré yóò jẹ́ ohun tí a kà sí gidigidi, tí a gbóríyìn fún tí a sì nífẹ̀ẹ́, tó jẹ́ ti ọ̀jáfáfá lọ́nà tó ṣe pàtàkì tó sì ní ìmúṣẹ̀dá tuntun. Àwòṣe tó borí Àmì-ẹ̀yẹ Idẹ A' Design Award yìí ń kó àwọn ọ̀nà tó dára jùlọ nínú iṣẹ́ ọnà, sáyẹ́ǹsì, àwòṣe àti ìmọ̀-ẹ̀rọ jọ, ó sì tayọ nítorí àfiyèsí rẹ̀ sí àwọn àlàyé kékeré. Poem Sapce Aṣọ Ìdinku Ìdahoro Kékeré ń tẹ́ àwọn ohun tí a nílò lọ́rùn lọ́nà àgbàyanu, ó ń fọwọ́ kan àwọn ìfẹ́ inú, ó ń gbà ọkàn ó sì ń fa ìfẹ́ láti mọ̀ mọ́ra.

Behind the Design

Press Kit

Credits, team members and technical details provided by the designer.

Unique Properties: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress redefines sustainable fashion by integrating innovative pleating techniques with zero-waste cutting. Crafted from locally handwoven fabrics sourced globally, this design preserves traditional craftsmanship while reducing energy consumption. By harnessing localized fabric shrinkage, it forms organic, three-dimensional silhouettes with minimal material waste.
Dimensions & Packaging: Length: 1500 mm x Width: 800 mm x Thickness: 50 mm
Tags: sustainable fashion, zero-waste design, innovative pleating, fabric shrinkage technique, handwoven textiles, three-dimensional garment, traditional craftsmanship, small-batch production, sculptural fashion, eco-conscious design
Production Technology: The design employs zero-waste cutting and an innovative pleating technique that utilizes localized fabric shrinkage to create organic, three-dimensional forms. Each pleat position is meticulously hand-fixed and mapped onto cardboard for small-batch production, ensuring precision and minimizing waste in the manufacturing process.
Design Challenge: The most challenging aspect of this project was balancing sustainability with structural innovation. Achieving precise pleat placement through fabric shrinkage required extensive testing, as different textiles reacted unpredictably. Additionally, sourcing ethically handwoven fabrics while maintaining production feasibility posed logistical challenges. Overcoming these obstacles involved iterative experimentation, collaboration with artisans, and refining techniques to ensure both aesthetic integrity and minimal waste.
Research: This research explores sustainable garment construction through fabric behavior analysis and zero-waste design. The objective was to develop an innovative pleating method that minimizes waste while enhancing three-dimensionality. Using an experimental approach, I tested localized fabric shrinkage and pleat fixation techniques, documenting results through draping, hand-marking, and pattern adjustments. Material tests were conducted to study fabric reactions, with findings informing a scalable, small-batch production model. The research promotes sustainability by reducing textile waste and preserving traditional weaving techniques.
Inspiration: The intersection of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary sustainability inspired the Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress. I sought to challenge conventional garment construction by exploring fabric behavior through pleating and shrinkage techniques. Drawing from research on localized textile manipulation, I developed a method to create dynamic, sculptural forms while minimizing waste. This project reflects my commitment to preserving heritage weaving techniques.
Project Duration: This project was exhibited in Cave of the Day, Cave of the Night in Brooklyn, New York. It began in New York in 2013 and was completed in mid-2014 in New York.
Operation Flow: The Shrink Pleat Minimal Waste Dress transforms through a unique pleating method that shapes the fabric organically using controlled shrinkage. Instead of traditional cutting, the fabric naturally adjusts, creating sculptural folds that move with the body. Each pleat is carefully placed to enhance form and flexibility, offering comfort and structure. This approach reduces fabric waste while achieving a dynamic, flowing silhouette that feels effortless yet meticulously crafted.
Image Credits: Photographer Hao Zeng